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84 points

Master of Malt Darkness! Benrinnes 15 year old Oloroso Cask Finish, 52.9%

What you look for in a finished whisky is for some of the distillery's character to be apparent, but also enhanced. Benrinnes is a big, meaty dram, which suits sherry and its feral aspect is there. Think of roast beef with damson jam, date, and blackberry. The palate is thick with licorice sweetness and a bitter edge. It has power, and while you can see the join between original spirit and finish, it’s a pretty happy match. £60/500 ml

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Telsington VI Single Cask 5 year old, 43.5%

A sweet nose of barley sugar, Refreshers candy, ground cumin, mown grass, and a trace of salt emerge from this triple distilled malt matured in pinot noir and Swiss oak casks. It’s another robust dram from the Principality, though after a burst of maltiness, it remains a linear experience of spun sugar, toffee apples, crème brûlée, and pomegranate. Water slackens the mouthfeel to reveal soft lemons, but this latest release works really well neat. €69

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Exclusive Malts Speyside 10 year old 2003 Cask #1781, 56.3%

From an undisclosed Speyside distillery. The nose is extraordinarily yeasty, with distinct apple cider backed by light caramel. The palate is more integrated than the nose with oak and cinnamon spice, apple, honey, and malt. At first these flavors are well balanced, but a spice and heat blast in the mid-palate throws things off. The finish reflects this and is quite dry. The parts are better than the whole in an interesting and strong whisky.  (U.S. only)

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Bn6 Elements of Islay (distilled at Bunnahabhain), 56.9%

Very chewy. Think of melting Mars bars, with a touch of coconut cream, then red-fruit acidity, red cherry, and lemon. All very forward and sweet, but with no alcohol when neat, showing an active cask. Dilute, there’s coconut, pea shoots, and banoffie pie. The palate is thick with Jaffa cake (orange and chocolate), then nutty granola. It doesn’t take water too well. Quite fat. £50/500 ml

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Kirkland Signature (distilled at Glenlivet) 40 year old, 40%

Bottling of a large package of 12 butts and 30 hoggies dating from 1972. The nose is slightly closed initially, but shows good mature distillery character: old apple, potpourri, more raspberry, and furniture polish. The palate is a little dry, with humidor and light chocolate, but needs water to bring out the fruit-sugar sweetness. It’s good, but that low bottling strength has sapped it of the energy which is vital for old whiskies. (U.S. only)

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

66Gilead The Wild Oak, 47%

From a bourbon-style mashbill matured in new Missouri oak, this first whisky from 66 Gilead salutes Wild Oak farm, where contented cattle dine on the distillery’s spent grains. Dry grain, gray weathered wood, sea breezes, caramel, and soft, earthy, woody notes become vanilla, saltwater taffy, cherries, and fruit punch, with herbal hints of celery. It’s hot and spicy with sizzling pepper and searing ginger over a barrelhouse woodiness. Young, but not rough, with a long, peppery finish.

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Lord Elcho 15 year old, 40%

The eldest son of the 5th earl of Wemyss, Lord Elcho was supportive to the Young Pretender. Proportionally, more sherry at play here. Plum skin, chunky raisins, blackcurrant, and fainter sweetened cocoa and coffee bean notes. The palate is a little hollow at first, then proffers barley sugar, rich shortbread, baked apple, linseed, and toffee, though the flavor development plateaus. Water picks out sweet clementine notes. Given the choice of expressions, I prefer the vibrancy of the Young(er) Pretender. £26

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Jim Beam Signature Craft Quarter Cask Finished, 43%

Gently sweet vanilla, corn, and honey on the nose, with background spice and dried citrus. The same sweet notes show on the first half of the palate, with resinous oak, polished leather, and dried spice on the back end; the quarter cask aging is evident. Unfortunately, the sweet flavors and dried oak influence don’t marry very well, with too much sweetness and youthfulness up front, and too much oak bringing up the rear.

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Kirkland Signature Highland 18 year old Sherry Cask Finish, 40%

An 18 year old single malt for just $33 should set alarm bells ringing. But this sherry-finished Kirkland expression from an undisclosed distillery is definitely a decent dram at a bargain-basement price. Initially slightly vegetal and earthy on the nose, developing a warm leatheriness, with sherry, figs, melon skin, and caramel. Silky on the palate, with milk chocolate, emerging hazelnuts, sweet sherry, and honey. The finish is medium in length, with spicy orange and mocha coffee notes.

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Master of Malt Darkness! Macallan 15 year old PX Cask-Finished, 52.3%

The Darkness! series involves finishing in specially-made octave (50-liter) casks. This has positive Macallan character with some oil (putty even) and touches of malt and turned earth, but also a scented, cognac-like fruitiness with added spice. Water adds a little sherried cheesiness. The palate shows some nutty, oxidized flavors to begin with, but then in the middle the PX flumps onto the tongue, slowing and dampening the drive. Pleasant enough though. £110/500 ml

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Exclusive Malts 1991 (distilled at Glencadam), 50.4%

A 22 year old Glencadam; maturation took place in a refill American oak hogshead. The nose offers rich honey and malt notes, though slightly balsamic. Syrup-like on the palate, heathery and spicy, with more honey. Relatively long and spicy in the finish, with chili, though honey persists right to the end. (U.S. only)

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond, 50%

Sharp nose, a bit of heat, fresh ground/cracked spices—cinnamon, pepper, allspice—and hot sugar about to caramelize. There’s nothing soft here. The first crash on the tongue isn’t soft either; it’s rushing bonded heat, insistent pepper, and dry oak. Wait a bit, and it calms as you finally find the corn and the mouth widens, then slides into a dryer, lasting finish. Pretty wild ride for a wheated bourbon.

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Kilchoman 100% Islay 4th Edition, 59%

A distillate of Islay-grown barley, made in 2009-10 and aged in bourbon wood. Here’s an intense Kilchoman with a licorice root sweetness mixed with dried seaweed, machair (beach pasture), cereal, and herbal smoke. The palate is slightly oily and hot when neat, with a distinct mineral edge. Water shows its youth but also allows tarragon and wormwood to develop. £64

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

83 points

Master of Malt Single Cask Series (distilled at North British) 18 year old, 52.3%

A tasty example from the historic North British distillery in Edinburgh, with a bouquet of vanilla, sweet hay, and mint ice cream. A sip made me nostalgic for childhood candies such as sherbet-filled, fizzy flying saucers and prohibited ivory-white candy sticks. I was seized by the initial lemon zing of acidic tartness, which becomes creamier before a richer, candied peel taste appears. There’s a clean, sweet finish and the mint pops up with water. Overall, satisfying but uncomplicated.

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

82 points

Master of Malt Reference Series II, 47.5%

This laudable effort of comparative whiskies explores the effect of age by combining four parcels of stock in different proportions. The older whiskies produce an enticing nose of marmalade-encrusted ham on the bone, grist, and worn sandpaper. It’s sugary sweet with ripe melon before the sherry takes control and dishes out cherry candy and papaya. Held in the mouth, it develops layers of creamy latte and milk chocolate as the fruit fades. More to get your teeth into here. £54

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

82 points

Glenlivet Nadurra Oloroso, 48%

I’m a fan of the original Nadurra’s freshness, which maximizes Glenlivet’s apple blossom and pineapple perfume. This pleasantly funky new brother has been matured wholly in oloroso, which adds (very) sweet sherry, nougat, blackcurrant, grilled pear, and malt. While the palate starts well, with mixed red and black fruits (and a little grapefruit), the sherry adds thickness from back palate on and the distillery slides away. Pleasant, but a tale of two halves. (Travel Retail exclusive) £50 

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

82 points

The Irishman 12 year old Single Malt, 43%

An aperitif-style aged Irish whiskey which plays in harmony with the fresh American oak bourbon casks. A light, fragrant nose of spring blossoms, waxed lemons, cinnamon sticks, pears in golden syrup, marshmallows, and fresh laundry. There is decent weight and structure here. Sharp acidity of peel scattered over lemon meringue pie, cinnamon, black pepper, and a finish of creamy fudge dipped in milk chocolate. Water pries open a hitherto-hidden waxy consistency (6,000 bottles released)

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)

82 points

Laphroaig Select, 40%

A new, no age statement addition to the Laphroaig family that blends together Quarter Cask, PX, Triple Wood, and 10 year old. The nose is reminiscent of freshly-treated decking, before some classic iodine creeps in. Water brings out geranium, pollen, and damp leather. The palate is simple, clean, and mild (and smoky), with bay leaf, light dried fruit, and that oily wood. Undoubtedly there's a lot going on, but it’s not married, and 40% means it lacks the necessary wallop. £35

Reviewed by: (Fall 2014)