Each of these three bourbons was distilled and bottled at the same time, and aged in the same warehouse for 12 years and 3 months. The main variable was the floor they were aged on. In theory, the higher up in the warehouse, the greater the temperature variation, and the more wood influence. Does the experiment support this general concept? Yes, with the sweet spot being the middle floor. A much deeper, bolder, spicier, drier, and (at times) harsher bourbon when compared to the other two in this experiment, aged on the first and fifth floor. The wood influence (notes of barrel char, leather, and tannin) from the barrel dominate the pleasing sweet and fruit notes found in the other two. This is for those who like their bourbon with plenty of oak influence. Best served after a large, rich meal. Price is per 375 ml.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Fall 2014)

Unaged. Richly sweet with corn, and a bit of new make funk. Replicated very closely on the tongue: alcohol heat, corn sweetness, wild flowers/stems, and faint notes of overripe fruit, with some drying minerality on the finish. Interesting where it’s not clean; a balance of craft and cunning.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Fall 2014)

A soft wadding of port gently prods the senses, producing a nose like a tincture from the hedgerows: redcurrant, raspberry, hawthorn, elderberry, and fresh, grassy notes with an accompaniment of waxed thornproof jackets, star anise, cardamom, and muted cloves. After maturation in 100-liter French oak quarter casks, the mouthfeel is thinner than expected. It’s like sinking your teeth into a slice of watermelon. There’s raspberry, Kola Kubes, and a touch of bitterness before a sticky finish. £140

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Fall 2014)

Light gold. From a refill bourbon cask, here we have more marzipan and some light maltiness alongside very fresh fruit and delicate vanilla. This is Rothes in slightly lean and hungry mode, with its signature fruits and spices in the background. Needs water to smooth things out. When that happens, there’s lemon drizzle cake, leafiness, and walnut flour. A little short on the finish.  £90

Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Fall 2014)

Maturation for this 21 year old bottling of Bladnoch occurred in a refill American oak hogshead. Sweet orchard fruits, new-mown hay, malt, and soft toffee on the nose. The palate is initially fruity, with more malt, then nuttiness develops, with aniseed and black pepper. The finish is relatively short and tannic. (U.S. only)

Reviewed by: Gavin Smith (Fall 2014)

Despite the common Heaven Hill origin, this is not the same stuff as Dant. The nose is focused, dry, integrated: sweet corn, the inside of an old wooden drawer, and a flip of sweet spice. Lively in the mouth, almost playfully light: corn fritters and filigreed oak. If you mix this, go light; this is not a heavy bonded trooper. One cube, a small splash; then enjoy the delicacy.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Fall 2014)

Another Benrinnes from the UK bottler’s new range, here the finish is more forceful, with masses of raisined sweetness, blueberry syrup, and molasses. The Benrinnes character adds weight and a firm earthy base, but this is more cask driven, slightly grippy, and for all the richness of the PX cask, the end result is a little bitter because of the treacle/molasses note. Fun certainly, but a bit over the top. £60/500 ml

Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Fall 2014)

Remarkably pale in color, this Exclusive Malt is a rare peated Dalmore. Peat reads more funky barnyard than smoke on the nose, with just a touch of sweetness behind it. The taste is much better than the smell, with the addition of smoke to the peat, intertwined with honey, salt, citrus, and ginger spice. The finish is slightly acidic and dry, far less satisfying than the mid-palate. There’s a reason why Dalmore doesn’t peat, but this release is still fascinating. (U.S. only)

Reviewed by: Geoffrey Kleinman (Fall 2014)

Aptly named after an inferno from an 18^th century hot air balloon tragedy. Kaboom! The alcohol singes the nasal cavities, baying for you to succumb, but there is underlying maltiness, tight currants, leather bootlaces, allspice, cherry, stewed apples, and damp warehouses. To taste: fire in the hole! At full power, it strafes the taste buds into submission, leaving them numb and cowering for the abatement of the peppery, dry finish. Brawn vanquishes subtlety. Douse liberally.

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Fall 2014)

A Seven Stills and Pacific Brewing Laboratory collaboration: a distilled double IPA. Broiled grapefruit and caramel, with a razory lightness, but a bit muddled. Flavors of sweet malt and maple pierced in a needle-row with bitter hop resins, pine, pith; malt/hop/malt/hop comes in quick waves. Like some double IPAs, this is a blunt instrument that simply walks up and wallops you with hops and malt; neither subtle nor particularly complex. Hop fans may well love it; others will not. Price is per 375 ml.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Fall 2014)

Aromas of liquid honey, light toffee, dried apple, and satsuma peel. There is an initial citric attack, but when the flare dies down, a residual bitterness cuts through the underlying creaminess and caramel. Sure, its component whiskies lack substance and grip, but there is some flavor progression through to an enjoyable piquancy around the gums. The finish is a nippy buzz of peel and heather honey. Simple, uncomplicated, but for the price there’s plenty to like here.

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Fall 2014)

Light amber. The nose offers up walnut bread, spelt flour, and a green, malty note. Overall, it’s slightly unyielding, with toasted oak, hazelnut, and barley. Water opens up a sweeter core: Lucozade, apricot kernel, and barley. The palate is where the apricot flesh turns up, but then it firms up quickly, snuffing that moment of levity out. Water introduces lemon before it becomes very gingery on the finish. It’s the thing about Tormore; it just can’t let itself go. (France only) €42

Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Fall 2014)

A locally-grown mashbill of 75% barley, 20% malt, 5% oats. Very aromatic for unaged spirit: fresh, grainy, a bit feinty/vegetal, split rock, and a note like well-rinsed crisp sauerkraut. It’s a quick and lively one in the mouth, sweet and slippery, grain and hints of fresh herbs (fennel, mace, white peppercorn). The finish is a bit sticky—the oats, maybe—and sweet. Interesting stuff.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Fall 2014)

Bottle 170 of this Delaware distillery’s first batch. Full, oily aroma of sweet, wet, crushed corn; almost too rich. Very clean on the palate; light and sweet, a bit of dry leafiness. Impressive first effort. (Delaware only)

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Fall 2014)

Stiùireadair means “helmsman” in Gaelic. This has been finished for a year in Marsala casks. The nose is all garden compost, moist vegetation, light smoke, and highly oxidized: like a young vin santo (or indeed Marsala). Very nutty, with an almost vermouth-like quality. The palate is all clove, anise, cherry stone. Those oxidized wine notes are so dominant it’s shifted the balance toward the finish. This particular helmsman’s somewhat off course. £95

Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Fall 2014)

Douglas Laing has added a no age statement bottling of Talisker to its Provenance range, tagging it as “Young and Feisty.” It comprises whisky from casks #10227 and 10229. Lively and up front, with bubblegum, wood smoke, and black pepper on the nose. Developing ozone. Zesty soft fruits, emerging dark peat notes, and more pepper on the palate. The finish is quite short, nutty, and slightly metallic. Young and feisty indeed! £65

Reviewed by: Gavin Smith (Fall 2014)

Amber in hue, this starts off very succulent and approachable, with some butterscotch, vanilla, and caramel toffee, but like its brother, it dries. The palate is lighter than the 14 year old, and seems to float, lacking an anchor. When it does come down, it does so with a cereal crunch. Water lightens it still further, just leaving a mix of oak and cereal, and an astringent finish. (France only) €56

Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Fall 2014)

The American craft whiskey movement has produced some unique riffs on classic spirits. Here we get a classic Irish-type whiskey made in Tennessee and aged in small, 15-gallon barrels. It’s all lush Irish on the nose, with caramel, green apple, dark chocolate, oak. On the palate the oak from the small barrel overtakes caramel apple with its smoky barrel char, sawdust, and clove spice. An interesting idea, but perhaps better realized in larger or used barrels.

Reviewed by: Geoffrey Kleinman (Fall 2014)