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90 points

GlenDronach 1990 vintage 20 year old Oloroso (cask 2621), 57.9%

If every fan of sherried whisky has a favorite GlenDronach then this is a long way down the road to being mine. It has a dusty dried orange peel, powdery, and perfumey nose, a soft and sweet round palate with a dark chocolate, tangerine, and pink grapefruit heart, and a balanced and gentle finish. This was probably once a hollerin’ maned lion of a malt, but it’s grown old gracefully and it now purrs and growls beautifully. £80

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

90 points

Laphroaig Triple Wood, 48%

Similar to Laphroaig Quarter Cask, but also finished in oloroso sherry casks. Fruit and smoke: fleshy red berries, red licorice, toffee, ripe barley, coal tar, sun-baked seaweed, peat smoke, and a hint of coffee grounds. Tarry finish. I rated the Quarter Cask a 91, and I think this whisky is similar in quality. If you like sherry-influenced whiskies, then go for the Triple Wood. If not, then consider the Quarter Cask. (Travel Retail and European exclusive)

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

89 points

The Balvenie Caribbean Rum Cask 14 year old, 43%

A new addition to the permanent Balvenie range. Lovely bright gold color. Layers of sweetness (the characteristic Balvenie honey, along with vanilla fudge, nougat, and rich toffee) peppered with dried spice and a hint of tropical fruit (papaya, guava, tangerine). Nice viscosity with good grip on the finish. I really like the balance and complexity of this whisky. A very solid effort and the price is right.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

88 points

Glenmorangie Finealta, 46%

Glenmorangie enters the world of peated whiskies (like everyone else these days it seems — not that I’m complaining). Richly textured layers of sweetness (vanilla, toffee, milk chocolate), fruit (tangerine, orchard fruit — especially ripe cherry), roasted nuts, wild morels, a hint of menthol, and gentle smoke. Certainly entertaining, even if the whisky doesn’t always seem to know what it wants to be. The soft sweetness mid-palate is balanced nicely by dried spice and smoke on the finish. Curiously enjoyable.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

88 points

Jim Beam “Signature” Six Grain, 44.5%

Caramel and vanilla notes, with a peppering of spice (primarily cinnamon, but also evergreen, cocoa, teaberry, and nutmeg) and subtle roasted walnut, finishing dry, gritty, and spicy (from the grains and also the oak). Spicier and not as sweet when compared to its sibling Jim Beam Black, an eight year old. There’s certainly a lot going on here. A very “busy” and intriguing whiskey for exploring and discussing. (Exclusive to Travel Retail.)€30

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

88 points

Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection, 1995 Vintage, “French Oak Barrel Aged,” 45%

Dark, big, and brooding. A mouthful of oak spice, resin, and leather. Surprisingly (and happily) the oak is never excessive — even on the finish. A mélange of toffee, maple syrup, and candy corn props it all up. The flavors aren’t as well defined as its sibling release (reviewed above), and there’s a peculiar hint of “dunnage warehouse” (think damp earth) to it that adds intrigue. A very characterful whiskey worthy of debate. Price is per 375ml.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

88 points

Jewels of Scotland (distilled at Dailuaine), 1973 vintage, 31 year old, 50%

A robust Speysider — and very tactile too (clinging to the palate), but with no excessive oak. Vanilla and some dark chocolate notes along with coating (yet ironically dry-ish) honey notes. But its biggest flavor note is citrus — particularly lemon, along with some tangerine and a hint of pineapple — which helps to cut through the thickness. Good depth, with dried spice, polished oak, and a wisp of smoke on the finish. (Bottled in 2004, but only recently released to the U.S.)

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

87 points

Millstone 8 year old, 43%

Based in the village of Baarle-Nassau in the Netherlands, the Zuidam distillery was built by genever distiller Fred Van Zuidam in 2002 and is now run by his son Patrick, who started distilling at the age of 14. His single malt is made from windmill-ground barley, given temperature-controlled fermentation, distilled in Holstein stills, and aged in new oak for a period before being racked into older casks. A rich amber color, this expression is ripe and fruity with plenty of red cherry, a little hint of fig, and a little sweet spice. Balanced and rich with a fresh citric farewell this is a classy arrival on the world scene. £59

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

86 points

Zuidam Dutch Rye 5 year old, 40%

Patrick van Zuidam uses rye as part of his genever, but when a farmer phoned up saying he had a surplus, he figured he might as well try a 100% rye whisky. Of similarly deep hue to the 8 year old, but a little more ruddy, this has a more waxy aroma, but with fresh rye sourdough penetrating. The spiciness which typifies rye here has a North African edge: cumin, cinnamon, coriander seed. The palate is less explosive and dusty than American examples; this is more of a slow-burning fuse that passes through orange and smooth, sweet oak before the spices return. £46

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

86 points

The Black Grouse, 40%

One might assume this to be just a smoky version of the standard Famous Grouse (with its honeyed malt, bright fruit, and floral demeanor). But, in addition to the enhanced smoke (which caringly adds a new dimension without smothering the other flavors), there also seems to be more malt body and oak spice in the mix, which I think takes Black Grouse to a higher level than Famous Grouse. The grain whisky contributes a “drinkability” component, making it a great introduction to smoky whiskies.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

86 points

Sullivan’s Cove, Bourbon Cask HH0104, 60%

Patrick Maguire, who now heads up Hobart’s Sullivan’s Cove distillery started work with Bill Lark before taking over Sullivan’s Cove in 2003. A French-design brandy still produces a very floral, sweet, and full-flavored spirit with notes of lime blossom and wood sap. It’s a bold distillate, but there’s sufficient sweetness and fragrant spice to balance. €95

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

86 points

GlenDronach 1991 vintage, 18 year old, sherry puncheon (cask 3182), 51.7%

The variety between this series of single casks is quite extraordinary. This has a soft and light nose with some mint and liqueured fruit, and a big, rich, and impressive taste with anise and menthol, glacé cherries, and traces of mint. The finish is warming and full, with the mint and cherry theme carrying through to a slightly peppery conclusion. £71

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

85 points

Bain’s Cape Mountain Single Grain Whisky, 46%

South Africa may be home to an increasingly impressive wine industry — and a noted brandy producer — but the country is also home to two whisky distilleries. Drayman’s in Pretoria is run by brewer Moritz Kallmeyer, while the James Sedgwick distillery in Wellington is home to Three Ships and Bain’s Cape Mountain Grain. Bain’s was created by distiller Andy Watts as a way to attract the new, female drinker. Sweet and succulent, this is like an alcohol ice cream sundae — fudge chunks, toffee, and butterscotch syrup, not to mention the ice cream, You pile on the pounds just smelling it. A lush beauty.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

85 points

The Balvenie Peated Cask 17 year old, 43%

The newest release in Balvenie’s limited edition range, and the first venture back into smoke since the “Islay Cask” limited release several years ago. Some of this whisky was finished in a peated cask, some in new American oak. Both influences emerge with the smoke (jerky with a hint of kippers) and spice (cinnamon, vanilla, nutmeg) on a foundation of honeyed malt. Spicy, smoky finish. Balvenie is one of those big Speyside whiskies that can stand up to the smoke. This one will not appeal to everyone, but it makes for an interesting diversion.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

84 points

Jim Beam Black 8 year old, 43%

Moderately rich, with layered caramel, vanilla, fig cake, and subtle sweet corn. Date, raisin, and a dusting of spice (cinnamon, cocoa, hint of ginger) round out the palate, leading to a gently sweet, soothing finish. A very versatile bourbon — certainly enjoyable enough to drink neat, but you won’t feel guilty if you make a cocktail with it or drink it on the rocks.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

84 points

Lark Single Cask LD126, 43%

Although the Aussie whisky-making industry started in Tasmania, the distilling bug is spreading across the country. Small-scale the distilleries may be, but the use of brewer’s yeast, local peat (in Tasmania’s case), and wood sourced from the wine industry has immediately given Aussie whisky an identity of its own. Yes, it’s tiny, but every great new whisky, no matter where it is from, chips away at Scotch whisky’s hegemony. Tasmanian-based Bill Lark is the founding father of the modern Australian whisky industry. He uses local peat and ages in small casks — and only does single cask releases. This means that by the time a tasting note is written the whisky has gone, but here’s what I thought of one of them. There’s a glimpse of some fresh malt, but it is the heightened aromatics that are the most interesting here. Lark points to the yeast mix as the origin of this scent. His small stills, however, give a muscularity to the palate, while the oak is in balance. €99

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

83 points

GlenDronach 1971 vintage, 39 year old, oloroso (cask 489), 48.8%

This whisky is doddery and on the edge, bordering on feeble. You have to look hard to find its spark and fire, but if you search for it, it is there. The nose is light and savory, with crushed fall leaves and chestnut on the nose. On the palate, there are traces of licorice stick, a touch of cumin, anise, and a creamier, less bitter chocolate note than some other samples. It finishes with traces of mandarin, but overall the sun is setting and the spirited and energetic man of old seems to be getting bitter. Overall, though, still pretty impressive for its age. £380

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)

83 points

Springbank C.V., 46%

A marriage of whiskies from bourbon, sherry, and port casks, which does help give it some complexity. A bit fleshy on the nose (sooty peat, soy sauce, sherry, tannins). It calms down on the palate (and is soothed by the sherry notes), with some additional vanilla, bitter orange, and brine. More brine and warming pepper on the finish. There’s a lot going on here, which I like, but I’m not sure all the flavors dovetail with each other well enough to deserve a higher rating.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2010)