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Single Malt Scotch | $125
This is the most seasonal of this batch of GlenDronachs, with a nose of rich stewed prunes and fermenting fruit in an orchard at harvest time. There is some anise and cherry lozenge in the mix, too, and the palate is complex, with plums, stewed fruits, and damson jam. The finish is drying, dusty, and spiky. £80
Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Winter 2010)
Bourbon/Tennessee | $90.00
Finished in toasted maple wood. I love the nose on this: complex notes of rum, golden raisin, maple syrup, nougat, polished leather, and warming cinnamon. The love continues on the palate, but toward the finish the flavors turn a bit aggressive (leather, tannins), which somewhat tarnishes an otherwise exciting, well-orchestrated whiskey.
Reviewed by: John Hansell (Winter 2010)
Belgian Whisky | $72.00
Distiller Etienne Bouillon and two partners, farmer Pierre Roberti and financier Luc Foubert established Belgian Owl in 2004 in the barley-growing region of Hesbay, pressing a 19th century Swiss ambulatory alembic into service. Bouillon studied with Jim McEwan at Bruichladdich, and The Belgian Owl shows something of the Laddie’s master distiller’s love of sweet spirit aged in first-fill American oak. Stir in some cream, sweet peach, guava, and mango and you have a lush palate. The youth is indicated by a little green almond, while there is a soft crunch of barley on the tongue. €46
Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Winter 2010)
Australian Whisky | $71.00
Tasmania may be setting itself up as the Speyside of Australia, but there are a growing number of distilleries on the mainland, such as Bakery Hill in Bayswater on the Dadenong foothills of Victoria, which was started by David Baker in 1999. Working with tall stills, his aim is to make a lightly fragrant spirit, and certainly that intense banana-like quality is there on nose and palate while the use of sherry casks adds a fruitcake and golden raisin depth.
Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Winter 2010)
Blended Scotch Whisky | $30.00
Quite fragrant and fairly sweet (but not cloyingly so), rich with nutty toffee, nougat, and bright summer fruits. Clean, gently sweet finish. Well rounded, nicely matured for its age and, at $30, a good value these days. A versatile whisky to keep in the drinks cabinet; it’s enjoyable enough sipping neat or with a splash of water, but (at this price) you won’t cringe if your guests drink it on the rocks or use it as a mixer.
Reviewed by: John Hansell (Winter 2010)
Single Malt Scotch | $288
No doubt about it, we’re at the furthest outpost of GlenDronach’s territory here, and this particular cask has waved the white flag. It has a dense, sappy, and nutty nose which is very savory and not particularly attractive. But thankfully there’s more to welcome you on the palate, with some rich orange and red fruit and sweet candy providing balance to the savory notes, and gentle oak and hazelnuts also getting a look in. The finish is woody and pruney. £185
Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Winter 2010)
Canadian | $25.00
Very clean, elegant, and well-rounded, with honey-kissed fruit, vanilla, and subtle spice. Very versatile. I would normally drink a whisky like this on the rocks or use it as a mixer. But, in a pinch, I could drink it neat.
Reviewed by: John Hansell (Winter 2010)
French Whisky | $58.00
It’s not compulsory to follow a Scottish way of whisky making. M. Olivier Perrier in the village of Herisson the middle of the Auvergne has taken a bourbon base (65% corn with malted barley and rye) and distilled it in a Cognac-style alembic before aging it for three years in Troncais oak. Any thoughts that M.Perrier is digging deep into his terroir can be quickly dismissed: the recipe is one for moonshine extracted from a South Carolina musician! His whisky (or should that be whiskey?) is fat and oily, with lots of corn and the scented note that these French whiskies all seem to share. It has a palate where the deep and the savory dance around each other that, while not exactly controlled, would be perfect to accompany an evening of blues in the middle of France. €37
Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Winter 2010)
Single Malt Scotch | $104
This isn’t the easiest to fall for. It’s stewed, swampy, a big, feisty, take-no-prisoners whisky with oxtail soup, spicy tomato and meat broth on the nose, then black treacle, praline, cayenne, and paprika. A rootsy prune juice is part of the finish. Challenging and tough. £67 [Dominic Roskrow]
Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Winter 2010)
Welsh Whisky | $70.00
The original Penderyn is finished in Madeira casks. I like the original better (which I rated an 84), as it tastes more mature and the Madeira seems to dovetail better with the other flavors. Fruity (red raspberry, strawberry, banana), with underlying sweet notes (honeyed vanilla, caramel, a hint of butterscotch). Quick, clean finish. Maybe this whisky just needed a little more aging for everything to come together?
Reviewed by: John Hansell (Winter 2010)
Canadian | $15.00
Richer, sweeter (with more caramelized sugars), fruitier, and spicier than the standard Canadian Mist (reviewed below). Still, I wish it were a bit smoother (especially on the finish) for something I would consider drinking neat on a regular basis. There’s no age statement, but a couple more years of aging would be nice. Like the flagship Canadian Mist, this whisky still plays it fairly conservatively — not a lot of risk-taking here. But I think it’s slightly better than Crown Royal Black (its logical competitor) which is not as smooth on the finish, and you can get Black Diamond for half the price.
Reviewed by: John Hansell (Winter 2010)
Canadian | $30
Not exactly black. (More like russet, but Crown Royal Russet isn’t as catchy.) It’s nice to see the higher strength, and there’s definitely more flavor here than the standard Crown Royal or Crown Royal Reserve. But it’s missing the smoothness and elegance I cherish in other Crown Royal whiskies. Notes of molasses and maple syrup, accentuated by burnt fig, hints of pedro ximenez sherry, and raisin. There are suggestions of dark rum and bourbon in here. (Perhaps an alternative to both?) A whisky to drink on the rocks or as a mixer.
Reviewed by: John Hansell (Winter 2010)
Welsh Whisky | $70.00
My feelings here are the same as for the Sherrywood: it comes across as younger and less mature than the original Madeira wood finish version. This one has some peat smoke in the mix. Malty sweet (with some graham cracker, nougat, and hints of butterscotch), peppered with light smoke. Quick, lightly smoky finish.
Reviewed by: John Hansell (Winter 2010)
Canadian | $12.00
Very light in aroma and flavor. There are no off flavors. It’s just uninspiring. Delicate notes of vanilla custard, honey, caramel corn, sweet corn, and subtle fruit. Fleeting finish.
Reviewed by: John Hansell (Winter 2010)
