90 points
Prima & Ultima Lagavulin 28 year old 1992, 47.7%
An experimental batch fully matured at Lagavulin in a freshly charred American oak hogshead, the aromatic peat smoke dissipates quickly, leaving scents of lemon lozenges, subtle smoked fish, linoleum floors, and a few drops of lime. The grapefruit, wood oils, vanilla sponge, honeydew melon, and oak flavors build slowly, notching up more smoke and tangy citrus to a climax of salted vanilla caramel with just a hint of peppermint. (1,081 bottles)
Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2021)
Dried fruits in the driver’s seat, with apple rings, peeled pear, warm pain aux raisins, macaroon bar, vanilla essence, delicate spices, and a hint of fruitcake on the nose. Plenty of distillery character here, with baked apple and plum, spice cake, clove, gingerbread, and pepper, then a smooth, syrupy conclusion encompassing dried fig, walnut, and plenty of rooty spices lasting through to the finish. (297 bottles, Glass Revolution Dram Hunter Selection U.S.A. Exclusive Release).
This would make a phenomenal outdoor dram, as it’s bristling with spices, woodshed lumber, chorizo, pink peppercorn, and red chile. The palate opens with flavors of vanilla, barley, sweet citrus, and lime, though these are quickly cast aside by a wave of peppery spices, which ebbs away to leave meatier notes, aromatic spices, and dry oak. The zigzag flavor journey adds to the excitement of this distinctive dram.