92 points
Benromach 21 year old, 43%
Sweet and smoky sherry wood, like the woodsmoke from charred butts, partnered with aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg, black cherry, malt loaf, and a hint of coffee grounds. This is a midnight dram, full of character and intrigue; a thick syrupy mouthfeel with black currant, cherry Dr. Pepper, clove, pepper, and black coffee, followed by Brazil nut, cassis, oak, and smoke. A lengthy, dark fruity finish sees you through till morning.
Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2021)
Released twice annually with varying age statements but consistent quality. There is a subtle fruity sweetness on the nose, with notes of fresh strawberries, dried orange slices and apricots, raspberry syrup, and sweet tea alongside dried herbs and Country Time lemonade. That interplay of tart and sweet carries over to the palate, with cooked berries, tangy citrus, and a soft inviting texture. The finish is mouth-coating and has good depth. With zesty notes throughout, this hits its mark well.
Menthol and pine on the nose, as well as incense, earthy sandalwood, iced tea, candied lemon, and a hint of candle wax. A smooth palate offers a sweet note of peat integrated with baked apple, orange, coffee, and cracked pepper. A rich, long finish has great balance, with lemon pound cake and fresh melon. Well textured throughout, this is creative and expressive.
The currach was an ancient type of hand-built boat, and the innovative design of this whiskey is equally watertight. Driftwood smoke, sweet mandarin, peppered smoked fish, lime peel, and clove on the nose. The way the peppery smoke infuses throughout the juicy citrus is rather wonderful. Light bodied, with vanilla, honey, citrus, green melon, and peppercorn, it shifts toward clove, coffee cake, and treacle, with some spirited late smoke.
This PX-oloroso seasoned European oak butt was marked out as a lone wolf cask for its complexity and richness. The shifting sands of the spice aromas invoke wonderful fragrant flavors rather than overt spiciness, and there’s still some meaty muscle behind the orchard fruit, baked peach, dried papaya, and cranberry. The palate shows baked cookies, apple pie, plum, red currant tartness, malt, carob beans, and drying wood; Mortlach in its prime. (454 bottles)