93 points
Glenmorangie A Tale of Cake, 46%
Generous and complex on all fronts: The nose is rich with marzipan, sweet oranges, milk chocolate, pistachio ice cream, and shortbread, while the palate leans more toward savory flavors of toasted nuts, dark chocolate, leathery oak, and a bit of tobacco. But it retains the rich sweetness of its namesake, with marmalade, figs, and warming ginger and nutmeg. Like the best desserts, the lengthy finish leaves one wanting more—and with so much to unpack here, that’s a wonderful thing.
Reviewed by: Susannah Skiver Barton (Winter 2020)
Peanut lovers, pour yourself a glass of this: It’s multi-dimensional where legumes are concerned. Peanut shells, spiced peanuts, dry-roasted peanuts—they’re all here, interspersed with fresh mint, cinnamon, iced tea, and tobacco barn. There are tingly spices—black pepper and dried chiles—on the palate, along with black tea and peppermint. The mouthwatering finish is generously oaky, with persistent spice and nuts.
A whisky with amazing natural colors and the aromas turned up to 11; polished red apples, mixed peels, currant, clove, peppercorn, and crinkly dried red chiles. Sweet raspberry fudge initially, then the mouth-drawing high alcohol bites, sending it spiraling through clove, plum skins, baked fruit crumble, cookies, charred oak, nutty toffee, black cherry, and coffee grounds. Some single cask whisky can be a rollercoaster: this is the whole theme park! (282 bottles)—
Glenmorangie has been growing its own barley for years, but this U.S. exclusive marks the first release produced entirely from its estate-grown grain. Honeysuckle and jasmine waft over lemon curd and shortbread on the nose, while bright aromas of blueberry and lime stand out. The palate is malty and full: shortbread with tumbling fresh blueberries, toasted almonds, and gingery spice. It’s silky, rounded, and seamless into the finish, and beautifully transformed by a drop of water.
The much-beloved Peat Monster was recently given a new recipe designed to create greater depth and elegance. The peat influence, while still omnipresent, is now more subtle. On the nose it’s gentle and fragrant, wafting over candied citrus, lemon-frosted cake, and raspberry, along with classic peated undertones of charcoal and iodine. The palate is creamy in texture, with pleasant notes of brine, seashells, ashiness, and a floral peat influence that swirls gently around rich vanilla, tropical hints of lime, smoked meats, and generous spice. The finish offers bitter chocolate, lemon hard candy, and a bang of spice and smoke.
Among this year’s strong field of new single pot still releases, Kilbeggan bottled a gem of an Irish whiskey that sparkled brighter than them all. The already historic whiskey style achieves a powerful air of authenticity. First it’s distilled in the oldest working pot still in Ireland, and the 19th-century Locke family recipe incorporates 2.5% oats, a common addition at the time. Melon, candied peel, nutmeg, cinnamon, and honeysuckle aromas cascade into a palate made especially lush and creamy from the oats, with citrus peel, apricot, and roasted hazelnut flavors leading to a mellow, rounded finish, adeptly exhibiting a crisp articulation of pot still spiciness throughout.
This veteran rye never managed to ascend from the bottom shelf. Perhaps a new generation of enthusiasts couldn’t get behind the staid name, or found the price too low to believe. But having persevered for over two centuries, Old Overholt’s time has come. This new version (indicated by its red cap) eliminates chill-filtering, resulting in greater flavor and depth. Aromas of Christmas spice cake, cinnamon, apple, and toasted grain lead to a mouthful of berry fruit, with seductive allspice, cacao, and walnut notes. What’s old is new again!
Remarkably easy drinking considering its hyper-charged proof, with an equally pronounced profile of balanced sweetness. The nose exudes caramel sauce, blackberry compote, cherry, maple syrup, semi-sweet chocolate, and vanillin, with earthy notes of warehouse floor and barrel char. The palate offers chocolate mousse, rice pudding, and cooked figs, leading to a long finish of cooked plums, dark berry tart, and chocolate-covered marshmallows. Rich, viscous, and loaded with balanced sweet flavors
Grape Kool-Aid, cherry cola, blueberries, tea leaf, walnuts, ginger, and polished oak lead the nose and carry into the chewy, full palate. This whiskey shows its maturity with well-integrated spice, semi-sweet chocolate, Concord grape jelly, and roasted nuts, all in sync with undulating oak. Warmth builds into the finish as cooked dark fruits and dark chocolate melt slowly away to reveal black pepper and ginger on a bed of polished oak.