94 points
Larceny Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight (Batch C920), 61.2%
Sweet grain-driven aromas dominate the nose: blueberry pancakes with maple syrup, orange marmalade on toast, honey-roasted peanuts, toasted coconut, brown sugar, and cherry cordial candies. The palate is equally expressive, chewy with peanuts and roasted pecans, milk chocolate, orange, cinnamon, ginger, white pepper, and big chunky oak, which turns mouthwatering on the lengthy, peppery, nutty finish. Though a proof this high can get unwieldy, it never shows a hair out of place.
Reviewed by: Susannah Skiver Barton (Winter 2020)
The youthful age statement may take many scotch drinkers by surprise, but don’t let double-digit bias prevent you from enjoying this exciting yet easy-drinking peat bomb. Salt water and seaweed, smoke and sweet peat tussle on the nose, while vanilla, fresh berries, and ample nuttiness spread out and take hold. The structured, balanced palate is creamy, nutty, and spiced, showcasing brown-sugar bacon, smoked salt, milk chocolate, pepper, and well-integrated oak, all wrapped up like a cigar with flakes of ash and sustained smoke. This precocious youngster shows more complexity than some whiskies twice its age, making it a remarkable find.
Spirit, not cask, drives this whisky’s character, with bright notes of lemon and lime, green apple candy, guava, vanilla, and ginger nut cookies creating an inviting and zesty nose. More lemon and lime, plus tangerine, on the palate, along with lively spices—ginger, white pepper, and cinnamon—toasted almonds, baking chocolate, and leather. With water, the profile flips as spices turn savory and chocolate and nuts take on a sweeter tone; the transformation is unexpected, but lovely. Tobacco, coffee bean, and leathery oak on the finish. (144 bottles; U.S. exclusive)
Elijah Craig always impresses with value, but until now has been confined to bourbon. This foray into rye whiskey sticks close to Elijah Craig’s bourbon roots by using only the minimum-required 51% rye in its formulation; however, it does achieve a nice departure in flavor. Aromas include butterscotch, caramel-nut clusters, and peppery spice. The spice ramps up on the palate, carried forward by the full body, hearty proof, and mouth-coating texture, as cherry cola, baking chocolate, and darker fruits emerge. Priced a notch below comparable peers, this rye delivers powerful flavors that feel excitingly untamed, and will impress bourbon and rye lovers alike.
An intense syrupy nose of fermenting fruit, with honey, ripe plum, grape, Braeburn apple, passion fruit, pineapple, and taffy, with flashes of cinnamon and snuff. Lush, weighty sweetness to taste, with honey, vanilla, mandarin, baked apricot, peach, molten caramel, oak, baked apple, and bananas in custard. What a find! As Blackadder celebrates 25 years in business, this will banish any doubts you have about grain whisky’s flavor. (273 bottles, 60 for U.S.)—
Fragrant, exotic spices permeate the nose, like a perfumy incense shot through with sandalwood; there’s also black currant, cooked plums, crushed raspberries, dark chocolate, and pineapple. The intensity of the nose builds on the palate, as rich flavors of lime zest, mango, raspberry jam, and dark chocolate swirl with the pull of oak tannins. The finish loses none of the tension between spirit and cask, balancing the dueling richesse of dark chocolate-covered pineapple and polished oak. (90 bottles; U.S. exclusive)
The most muscular whiskeys can sometimes feel like bullies, attempting to subdue your palate, but this one shows its strength without aggression. Deeply sweet and nutty on the nose, with pralines, butterscotch, and maple syrup, along with candied orange peel and cherry juice. The palate has a strong backbone of spice—ginger, chiles, and black pepper—while generous oak fills out the frame, and over all of it, dark fruit flavors drip: boysenberry syrup, cherry juice, and blackberry jam. The lengthy finish sprinkles a bit of tobacco and a generous amount of cocoa powder.
Let this whisky glide into your glass without hesitation: aromas of poached pear, hazelnuts, honey, marmalade, and ginger jam turn bright and fresh with water. The oleaginous palate is waxy in both texture and flavor, slick with candied citrus and subtle spice that builds into a resonant crescendo. That spice wave meets with savory hazelnut, tobacco, and leathery oak on the finish, lasting for minutes without slackening. (300 bottles; U.S. exclusive)