In one of the year’s most intriguing experimental techniques, Glengarriff treats new barrels with burning peat to imbue a fine veneer of smoke over the surface of the vessel’s virgin oak staves. A final finishing in these smoked barrels imparts the captivating pleasure of chocolate brownie, campfire smoke, and sweet cocoa aromas that yield to a pleasantly oily, rounded whiskey with citrus, Jolly Rancher hard candy, chocolate cake, spices, and coffee notes, with a finish of festive spices. Ambitious work, fresh from the frontiers of flavor. —Jonny McCormick