
The Old Crow bar in Zurich has 900 whiskies, including many single-barrel bourbons selected by a local group of collectors. (Photo by Adam Robb)
Think of whisky, and the places that come to mind are the rugged Scottish Highlands or Kentucky's rolling green hills—definitely not the snow-covered Alps. Yet one of the world's most exciting whisky scenes can be found in land-locked Switzerland. The country prohibited distilling grain until 2008, but its wealth as both an international banking capital and a winter playground has created opportunities to sip and stock up on top-quality, rare, and esoteric whiskies just about everywhere. From high-end hotels to bars both big and famously small, there is an impressive whisky cache to discover.
The Devil's Place sold a dram of this Macallan for nearly 10,000 Swiss francs before it was revealed to be fake. The bar made amends to the customer and no longer sells whatever is contained inside.There's only one bottle on display in the lounge that's not on the menu: an infamous bottle of 1878 Macallan the hotel once opened for a visiting Chinese connoisseur. Three years ago, a single pour was sold for CHF9,999, but the story soon became tabloid fodder when the bottle was proven to be counterfeit. Chef de bar Gianni Arne recalls, however, that the bar was praised for its handling of the situation. “Mr. Bernasconi did everything right, from an independent carbon dating to flying to refund the grateful patron.” Bernasconi's efforts have instilled trust and loyalty in The Devil's Place patrons. There's even a wall of fame where customers' portraits are hung after sampling 100 pours; gold frames encase those who have sampled 1,000.
Luxury to Local
The Bernina Express terminates at a train station in St. Moritz, discharging travelers to the right, where chauffeurs line up to ferry them to century-old grand hotels looming large in the dramatic Alpine landscape. The lobby bar at the nearby Carlton Hotel is home to the strongest whisky list in this pedigreed enclave, offering 100 prized pours with an emphasis on scotch, including a 1981 Glenmorangie Pride 28 year old at CHF1,000 for 4 cl. However, not all guests linger between the lobby's twin fireplaces. Bar manager Martino Saldi, a veteran of the American Bar at London's Savoy Hotel, recalls the night "a guest bought a bottle of Highland Park 30 year old (costing around $3,000), took two shots in front of me, then finished off the bottle downstairs at Da Vittorio," the Carlton's two-Michelin Star restaurant. He notes that more disciplined regulars keep their purchases, like a 1968 Glenbury Royal 36 year old, locked in a glass display case beside the bar, poured at request when they're in residence.Far below-on the literal wrong side of the train station's tracks-lies the Waldhaus Am See, a rustic lodge on a frozen lake, owned by the Eastern Swiss Dairy Farmers Association. The draw here is not the spare accommodations but the bar. The Devil's Place is the vision of hotel director Claudio Bernasconi, who discovered a taste for whisky early in his career, in India, where he was instructed to brush his teeth with the spirit rather than the local water. His enjoyment clearly grew, and at times he has held Guinness World Record for the largest commercially available whisky collection, offering more than 2,500 unique expressions spread across a maze of bar rooms that lead to a restaurant featuring live traditional music and an all-you-can-eat salad bar.At The Devil's Place, which is favored by locals for its egalitarian service, the rarities include a 1984 Karuizawa 29 year old, the 1981 release of Macallan Royal Marriage containing whisky from 1948 and 1961, and an unopened Highland Park 50 year old, only available to the customer who buys the first five pours. These drams are among the most expensive on the list, but there's something for every budget, like a 2009 Aultmore 10 year old released by the independent bottler Signatory in celebration of White Turf, an annual horse race on the frozen lake outside. In the lounge, a wall of cases displays every release from Signatory, dating back decades to when Signatory owner Andrew Symington held his wedding at the hotel.