A confectioner’s delight; Fry’s Five Centres, lime, lemon, kumquat, iced buns, fresh mint, and crushed cardamom that matches the chocolate aromas. Those re-charred, rejuvenated casks are very much in evidence here. It has a gilded, satiny sheen, glistening with lemon drizzle cake, butterscotch, orange matchsticks, and banana bread. Incontrovertibly, it inhabits a signature grain style, but it fizzles out with a sticky, sweet aftertaste, like licking the spoon from the icing bowl. £45

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2014)