Here we see a significant step-change from the progression of 13 to 19 (see below). Now, there is added spice, ripe fresh cooked and dried fruits, and a touch of the peat smoke that used to be lightly added. With water, a mix of maple syrup and waxiness comes through. Complex and deep. The palate remains thick and silky, with melted white chocolate before lilies make an appearance alongside baked pineapple. Structured, layered, long, and elegant. £337

Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Winter 2014)