The subtle sweet smoke, like singed rocks around a beach fire, becomes more pungent if left unattended. Underneath, aromas of sweet lemons, tropical fruits, lemongrass, and smoked olives abound. Juicy sweetness, with a real concentration of mango, papaya, and sugary boiled candies melds into flavors of vanilla and Battenberg cake. After a concluding rush of pepper, the smoky fumes permeate through the back end. Oh boy! Ridiculously good! €115

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2018)

Donnay also makes a peated variant. Again, the distillery’s ability to mix the heavy (in this case smoke) with the lifted is demonstrated. Think sage and rosemary, mixed with nuts and a really salty tingle that brings to mind eating samphire while the smoke wreathes the palate. Make no mistake, this is one important new whisky. £60

Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Winter 2010)

Made by the sea in Côtes d’Armor on direct-fired small stills attached to worm tubs, which the French elegantly call condenseurs serpentins. This has smoked fish, iodine, pine forests, driftwood, lemon zest, and clean medicinal qualities rather than peatiness. Waxed lemon, light fudge, lemon bonbons, and vanilla from the bourbon barrels ride a crescendo of pepper and ginger before smoke obscures all before it. A match for any Islay.

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Fall 2018)

Kornog is the peated version of Glann ar Mor and the whisky is released in batches. This one is the most intense, with oily, charcoally peat most evident. But what makes this whisky particularly special is a dark chocolate and lime candy heart, the concentrated pear notes, and a refreshing sweet theme that holds off the oil and smoke elsewhere. Think Connemara and you're not far off. €60

Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Winter 2012)

Every May, Jean Donnay searches for an exceptional single cask to bottle in honor of the patron saint of Brittany. This fresh bourbon barrel was an inspired pick. Summer honey, creamed coconut, honeysuckle blossom, vanilla panna cotta, and an attractive turf-rich peat note leap from the glass. Tart and juicy, with tangerine imbued with peat, its journey takes on a delicious malty and chocolate character, arriving at a delectable final plateau of nutmeg. He’s found superb balance this year. €95

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2016)

A cask strength expression of Kornog showing great maturity, yet born from Glann ar Mor’s small pot stills and condensed through the coils of their worm tubs. The smoke is beguiling; sweet and aromatic with tokens of vanilla and an underlying faceful of Atlantic sea spray. It is sweet, fruit-led—especially mango—though the alcohol never dominates, more like a sunburst through a cloud. The finish is moreish, returning to the salt, which only makes you thirsty for another pour. €95

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Fall 2014)

Of all the releases I've tasted from this distillery, this version is the one that most resembles Glann ar Mor, stepping a big step away from the peat and toward the sort of earthy fruitiness that is typified by Glann ar Mor. There are more exotic fruits here too—kiwi and mango, perhaps—and something reminiscent of green salad. Surprisingly refreshing. €60

Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Winter 2012)

Bearing the easiest name of all the Kornogs to pronounce, this is also the least challenging and complex. It is, pretty much, a straightforward peated whisky with more citrus fruits than the others, some apple and pear in the mix, and some chilled spices. The finish is long, smoky, and spicy. Benefits massively from a little water. €86

Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Winter 2012)

If you cannot wait for Jean Donnay to start distilling at Gartbreck on Islay, console yourself with this Celtic whisky made by the sea, with malt peated to 35-40 ppm. The nose has hard, dry peat, cold charred logs, and heather twigs, but enough creamy sweetness to keep it buoyant. It shimmers and twists on the tongue, showing shades of light and dark. Nuts, treacle, licorice, and raisins emerge, though the structure shows its youth. Dry, sooty finish. €60

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Fall 2014)

This is another young peated whisky, but the earthy and dusty smoke is wrapped around a honeycomb and milk chocolate center. It’s both rugged and comforting, the whisky equivalent of chili chocolate: a bittersweet love affair for those who enjoy the contrary nature of sweet and savory. €77 (Currently not available in the U.S.)

Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Fall 2011)

Lemon lozenges and chewy warm cookies, with muscular, brutish smoke characteristics; like standing too close to the open doors of a peat kiln. The palate begins with gooseberries; very sharp, sour, and acidic, the blistering alcohol rolling through like a steamroller, while ginger and pepper fly about like sparks off a grindstone. It is enjoyably mollified through dilution to suggest sponge cake, citrus, chocolate, and tobacco notes. The consummate Kornog can be divine, but this is hard core. €100

Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2016)