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86 points

Chieftain’s (distilled at Port Ellen), 1982 vintage, 25 year old, 43%

Port Ellen whiskies are getting pretty rare (and expensive). This one is softer and less vibrant than others that I’ve tasted, but still very much Port Ellen, and still enjoyable! Notes of coal tar, rooty licorice, toffee, dark chocolate, and nougat, with background citrus gumdrops, ginger, brine, seaweed, peat bog, and damp oak. I think bottling this at 46% without chill-filtering, or perhaps even cask-strength, would have helped the flavors “zing" (and elevated my rating).

Reviewed by: (Fall 2010)

84 points

Port Ellen 32 year old, 52.5%

A mix of two types of cask, both refill. Typical Port Ellen on the nose, very clean, precise, and austere, hiding its sweetness in a new pigskin wallet. Though there are hints of apple and almond, it has a chalky edge and surprisingly low levels of smoke. With water there’s squid ink and waxed paper. The palate starts with Darjeeling tea and roasted fruits, then heads to the kelp-strewn seashore. As challenging as ever, and actually a bit too dry. £600

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

73 points

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Port Ellen), 1982 vintage, 24 year old, 40%

Port Ellen is going to just keep getting rarer and more expensive, and the quality is going to get more variable. This one shows the traditional Port Ellen characteristics (seaweed, tar, charcoal, damp earth, vanilla, salt, white pepper), but it just seems to flatten out mid-palate, leading to a fairly lifeless, slightly astringent finish. I feel like some of the guts were ripped out of this whisky. Bottling at a higher strength (and not chill-filtered) would have helped immensely.

Reviewed by: (Fall 2008)