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Rye Whiskey | $34
Another experimental “Whims” bottlings; this one is 95% malted rye and 5% malted barley. Nose is sharp, with notes of cinnamon candies and a bit of solvents. Better on the palate: a cooling breeze of minty rye, some citrus, and growing bitter rye oil as it finishes. Fairly simple, pleasant stuff, but the nose is not inviting. Price is per 375 ml.
Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Winter 2014)
Single Malt Scotch | $215
Quite a solid start for a Caol Ila which, like the 30 year old (see above), pitches you into the farmyard, though this time it’s a sheep-shearing shed. There’s also some bacon and spent barbecue. The initial impression is of a pretty dry example, but some oil begins to seep through. The palate is explosive with some engine oil, becoming pretty flinty with violet notes, and the distillery sweetness is hidden. A little disjointed. £135
Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Winter 2014)
Blended Malt Scotch Whisky | $114
Despite the high strength, the aromas strike the nose like a pillow in slow motion. Greengages, corn, and ripening lemons lift from the glass. It’s a thick, unctuous, layered mouthful with honey, gooseberry, and lemon acidity, though a splash of water produces softer notes of Scottish tablet and evaporated milk. A little sourness in the finish. Sure, part of the allure of Boutique-y whisky is the batch variations, but this is quite a different beast from the magnificent Batch 1. £72
Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2014)
Single Malt Scotch | $1113
A slightly perfumed nose offers up the slightly unusual pairing of dried lavender, sweet-cured herring, and then potpourri air freshener. This flies off to show wet dulse on warm sand. It starts sweetly with some nutmeg, then hot peppers. The smoke is very light, allowing a tantalizing glimpse of soft guava before the salinity returns. Water brings out the peat kiln but also that initial perfume. Muddled. £700
Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Winter 2014)
Flavored Whisky & Liqueurs | $65
Prichard’s Double Barreled Bourbon is flavored with artisan chocolate. This dark chocolate is clear on the nose but not singular, as it's accompanied by strong oak, maple syrup, and cherry. On the palate, chocolate becomes more a supporting flavor for classic bourbon notes of oak, maple, caramel, and clove spice. The mid-palate is a little acidic and the chocolate adds a slight bitterness to the equation. The finish is a little too dry, but in all, an intriguing combination of flavors.
Reviewed by: Geoffrey Kleinman (Winter 2014)
American Whiskey | $39
Caramel, brown sugar, vanilla, generic sweetness. Smooth entry, and more of the same on the tongue with some alcohol heat in the finish. Very little wood at all. Begging to be poured into Coke. Maybe most jarring is that the Hatfield & McCoy “brand” recalls the infamous feud that took place on the Kentucky-West Virginia border…while this was distilled in South Carolina. At least the label’s honest as far as that. Sourced whiskey.
Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Winter 2014)
Bourbon/Tennessee | $32
Plainly states it’s “aged four months in a small oak barrel.” Tame nose; working hard to pull out anything other than alcohol heat, some fresh-cut wet wood, and wet cereal. Quite hot, with lots of wet oak sawdust and sweet cinnamon that rocket right into the finish. Reminds me of a young teenager, running around, shouting at inappropriate moments, and very excited. Too young and hot right now. Put it back in the barrel; maybe a larger one. Price is per 375 ml.
Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Winter 2014)
Blended Scotch Whisky | $20
The range begins with this entry-level whisky, aged for 3 years. Aromas of pale toffee, vanilla, and scented, herbaceous notes can be found on the nose. It has a light, silky texture and comprises flavors of stewed fruits, with a slight bitterness behind them. Plum and coffee notes expand, though it remains tart through to the buzzy finish, which is lifted by hints of chocolate. A robust and pugnacious dram.
Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2014)
Flavored Whisky & Liqueurs | $49
Lemony, pine woods, even some seashore aromas over the sweetness of the malt whiskey underneath. Not overly bitter, more whiskey-sweet, and the aromas are subdued in the mouth. I like a big hoppy IPA, but this isn’t setting my palate. I think it’s missing the body of a beer. I have yet to have a hopped whiskey that I really like; this isn’t it either.
Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Winter 2014)
White Whiskey | $20
Many moonshine products are centered around corn, but Freedom Moonshine mixes it up with a mashbill of 95% rye and 5% malted barley. Yeasty rye bread defines the nose with an undercurrent of white grape. The entry is soft, with yeasty rye, vanilla, and bran flakes. There’s some structure in the mid-palate with rye spice and black pepper but it needs more. The finish is a little flat, all pointing to the need for a slightly higher proof.
Reviewed by: Geoffrey Kleinman (Winter 2014)
Corn Whiskey | $30
The nose starts with sweet corn, cornmeal, yeasty bread, and black pepper, with wet dog and a slight varnishy note right behind. The entry is soft and round, with dry cornmeal, bran flakes, and yeasty bread. Unfortunately, the varnish note from the nose returns pretty clearly in the mid-palate along with black pepper. Everything wraps up with a shorter than expected finish. The heart of this whiskey is interesting, but it could benefit from a much tighter cut. (distillery store only)
Reviewed by: Geoffrey Kleinman (Winter 2014)
Flavored Whisky & Liqueurs | $20
The aromas from the base rye moonshine complement the apple much better here than in Freedom’s other flavored offerings. Baked apple mixes with cinnamon and is supported by a bread undertone. The apple note comes off as just a little too artificial. Like the other Freedom Moonshine products, the entry is too soft and flat. The biggest problem here clearly is the proof. There’s just not enough structure to do anything with this moonshine: mix, ice, or otherwise enjoy.
Reviewed by: Geoffrey Kleinman (Winter 2014)
