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90 points

Port Charlotte Islay Barley 2008, 50%

Robust Port Charlotte character, with salami and jamon serrano to the fore. Somewhat like eating a chorizo and roasted red pepper sandwich on the beach on a summer’s day, but it retains the sweet freshness of the distillery character. With water, the lovely smell of cow’s breath. There’s dry smoke to start with on the palate, becoming sweet (flash-fried scallop) with sugared almond on the finish. For me, PC comes fully of age here. £55

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

90 points

St. George Single Malt (Lot 14), 43%

This release is based on a mash done at Sierra Nevada brewery, aged in eight different types of casks (including apple brandy and white wine) running from 4 to 15 years old. Delicate fruit, nuts, and sweet malt combine like perfect pastry in the nose. Add a bit of unsweetened chocolate on the palate, finishing with a lingering reminiscence of every bit of flavor, and you have a beautifully integrated whiskey that is unmistakably St. George. Delightful.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

90 points

Caol Ila 30 year old (Diageo Special Release 2014), 55.1%

More smoke than is common from this distillery and age. The aromas are food-related: initially roast ham with caramelized sugars, then a clambake, then oven-roasted lobster. With water, a distinct whiff of the goat shed (nice, by the way). The palate is refined and mature, but with fresh fruits retained, with oak and smoke beautifully integrated. A mature Caol Ila in similar vein to the excellent (and significantly more keenly priced) 25 year old. (7,638 bottles)

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

90 points

Craigellachie 13 year old, 46%

Light amber. The initial impression is one of bulk. There are heavy florals — think lilies and stewed white fruit, and just-overripe banana — but this is given a mysterious extra heft by an underpinning of a light meatiness, accompanied by a tiny lift of (good) sulfur. The palate is, unsurprisingly, thick and creamy with huge fruit that fills the mouth. A highly physical, old-style Speyside dram with classic distillery character. A statement whisky that is a must-try.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

90 points

Celtic Cask Cúig 1991, 46%

Despite the vintage statement, this is 13 year old single pot still matured in first-fill bourbon. Apparently, it was MIA for eight years before being bottled. Peeled apples, crackerbread, Quaker oats, ripening pears, cappuccino sprinkles, and lightly toasted spices make for a well-composed and inviting prospect. Enveloping and oily with tarte aux pommes, fruit polos, allspice, and ground ginger. After a brief effervescent fizzle, it expands to become creamier and the spices carry on long after you have swallowed. €350

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

90 points

Adelphi (distilled at Mortlach) 26 year old, 58.6%

Amber. Very meaty, with a touch of cordite, then dark fruits, wet earth, and autumn woods, cut with spicy licorice and Darjeeling tea. Water brings down this exuberance, adding iris and whole grain bread. The palate has typical, full-on Mortlach brawny muscle, with chestnut honey-glazed venison. Water bringing out sweetness, but without ever losing that glowering core. Lovers of the old 16 year old apply here.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

90 points

The Pearls of Scotland (distilled at Invergordon) 1972, 43.4%

Holy Moly! Where do they find them? Over 40 years old and this seizes your attention with a becoming nose of smoked ham, sweet paprika, and red currant jelly. It’s extremely fruity with just the right level of tartness to keep it in balance; pomegranate, strawberry laces, crystalized fruits, and a nip of licorice adding to the richness and emerging creaminess before a dry finish of Victoria plums. Simply a gorgeous old grain. (300 bottles for UK, Europe, Scandinavia, and Japan) £155

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

90 points

Elijah Craig 23 year old (Barrel No. 26), 45%

Yes, 23 years is a long time to age bourbon. And yes, there’s plenty of oak influence. But there’s an underlying sweetness that balances the oak spice (with this particular cask; others may vary). Chewy in texture, with toffee, dates, fig cake (with nuts), barrel char, tobacco, leather, and a dusting of cocoa.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

90 points

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Berber Whiskey With a Hint of Smoke 53.199 12 year old, 57.5%

Much of Caol Ila’s malt goes into Johnnie Walker blends, so it’s a rare treat to see a cask strength offering. This release is Caol Ila on steroids, featuring a deeply smoky and meaty nose with bacon, campfire, leather, sea salt, and iodine. On the palate, the smoky fire continues to burn with intense smoke and salt combined with sweet honey malt.  An extremely long finish will have you exhaling smoke long after the dram is gone. (Julio’s Liquors only)

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

90 points

Compass Box The Lost Blend, 46%

The smoking wicks of church candles, smoked meat, coastal notes, cumin, coriander seed, and herbal elements. A sophisticated palate of unsweetened fruit. Peaches, citrus, and pineapple, with a waxy presence building later on, settles to a dry finish of herbs and beeswax. We can easily overlook the narcissism of making tributes to your own past bottlings as John Glaser turns whisky resurrectionist in homage to Eleuthera. Layered, complex, thought provoking, and finely tuned for the connoisseur.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

89 points

Hillrock Double Cask Rye (Barrel No. 19), 45%

Rye spice is the first thing on the nose: cinnamon-spiked hard candy, hot and juicy. Beautifully oily and bitter rye character slides across the tongue on a wave of sweet caramel and vanilla. Young, but in the eager intensity of rye, not the clumsy heat of bourbon. Rye shines here, from the first whiff to the last bitter curl on the tongue, and the wood deftly sweetens and soothes. Nicely done.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

89 points

Parker’s Heritage Collection Original Batch Wheat Whiskey 13 year old, 63.7%

Heaven Hill’s straight wheat whiskey, Bernheim Original, is a pleasant drink, but I always felt that some extra aging and a higher proof would give it additional richness and complexity to propel it to a higher level. That’s what this new expression accomplishes. Soothing, gentle layers of caramel-coated nuts, vanilla fudge, coconut cream, maple syrup, and marzipan, with a sprinkle of cinnamon and cocoa. So easy to embrace. Nicely done.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

89 points

Bruichladdich Bere Barley 2008, 50%

Bere is an ancient strain of barley which is stubbornly difficult to grow and mash. For this, Bruichladdich has gone to a specialist farm on Orkney. The nose is intriguingly aromatic, sweet and slightly corn-like, with a sweet nuttiness behind. It becomes very floral (night-scented stocks) with white currant, lemon sherbet, and a lift of tangerine before water brings out sakura (cherry blossom) syrup and bread. The palate is very sweet and concentrated. Remarkable. Keep watching. £52

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

89 points

Double Barrel Ardbeg & Craigellachie, 46%

If I had to back one of the protagonists in Douglas Laing’s latest Duel of the Phial, my money would be squarely on the Ardbeg. The nose delights with oils oozing from the chestnut flesh of a grilled kipper, coiled rope on a trawler’s deck, and hot pressed asphalt, with a gentle background note of roasted peanut and millionaire’s shortbread. Medium texture: lemon and butterscotch, delicious fruitiness, and spearmint on the mid-palate. Clean, creamy with a baked lemon finish. £49

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

89 points

Forty Creek 2014 Evolution, 43%

A new direction for Forty Creek’s 8th annual release, which was aged 3 years, redistilled, then aged another 9 years. Quintessentially Canadian, it begins with Caramac candy bar, finishing in white pepper and bitter grapefruit pith. Not as lush as past releases, although the flavors remain a tightly woven panoply of fruit, spices, vegetal notes, and citrus zest. Gooseberries and lime on the nose become black currants on the palate as increasing hints of red wine come to dominate.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

89 points

Glengoyne 26 year old Single Cask Distilled 1987 (Cask #384), 54.6%

This 26 year old single cask Glengoyne was matured in a first-fill European oak sherry butt that yielded 339 bottles. It offers a nose of sultanas, figs, and vanilla, plus white pepper and a hint of linseed. Succulent in the mouth, the palate yields sweet sherry, honey, and contrasting lemon juice and pepper. The finish is lengthy, but dries rapidly, with lively pepper, oak tannins, and a final fatty note. £350

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

89 points

Celtic Cask Sé, 46%

After 21 years in refill sherry, this whiskey was finished for 4 months in their preferred Mallorcan Ànima Negra barrels. Here, they achieve a sublime marriage of the sherry cask and finishing vessel, perfecting the aromas of fresh-sliced fig, sherry trifle, and crystalized pineapple. Tight and dense flavor, offering spangles, apricot jam, fragrant spices, raspberry, toffee, and maraschino cherry. Real quality and depth of character lasting through to the long, fruity finish of dates and stewed fruits. (328 bottles) €195

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)

89 points

Kerrygold Irish Cream Liqueur, 17%

Kerrygold is Ireland’s major player in the dairy business. Scored against other Irish cream liqueurs, this is highly rated. I’m smitten. The sweet chocolate is rich, delectable, and utterly gorgeous, with melting caramels slathered all over the taste buds, riding high on a wave of lush Irish cream. There are fruity notes of sultana and black cherry, expressed by the chocolate, which soar above the reliable foundation of Irish whiskey. Can you tell this won my heart? Do indulge.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2014)