Denmark often seems to live in the shadow of Sweden, and certainly that has been the case with whisky. But slowly and surely a revolution is happening there, and I suspect that Stauning will be right at the forefront of it. This is another work in progress: pleasant, well made, and potentially very good indeed. The dominant flavors are gooseberry, sour apple, and pepper. Good as an aperitif. 695 Krone/500 ml

Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Spring 2014)

Longmorn is one of Speyside’s fruit bombs, something which remains true here, even if in slightly paler guise than usual. Instead of ripe autumn fruits, here you get kiwi, William pear, green plum, even green tomato, and a faint blossom reminiscent of the almond notes of sakura (cherry blossom). I’d keep water well away, such is this light, lacy Longmorn’s fragility. £73

Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Spring 2014)

Much darker in color than the Classic bottling (also reviewed this issue), as is expected. The nose warns of a wood-whelmed whiskey: dark, bitter wood notes, with a caramel underlay. The mouth is much hotter than the Classic bottling, with bold oak spice in the front and a gooey caramel/toffee sweetness underneath…only it’s not as good as that sounds. It’s all rather one-dimensional, including the hot oak finish. An interesting lesson in wood, but not at $200 for the pair.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Spring 2014)

Aged in new charred oak, then finished in “white wine-seasoned French oak.” Tight, sawdusty, bitter nose. A lot of wood here, going in different directions. First hit is the American oak (vanilla, rich spice), followed quickly by creamy French oak, then comes a wave of fruity wine wood character. Full in the mouth, and a thick finish. Interesting, but not particularly well integrated; maybe a case of “just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.” Sourced whiskey.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Spring 2014)

Aggressive nose of bitter orange, dark chocolate, and pine comes boiling out of the glass. More gentle on the palate: the same notes, but wrapped in sweet malt. A bit hot and crinkly on the tongue, an assertive whisky, but it fades quickly at the end. Good flavor, but a lack of depth; everything Defiant has is right there on top, there’s nothing to discover. The pine is off-putting, too; not sure where that’s coming from.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Spring 2014)

Clean nose, hard grain, some grassy sweetness, a bit perfumey. Interesting on the tongue: grain, sweet orange, and meadow grass; has a pleasantly creamy texture. Gets just a bit solvent-touched at the finish, but overall, an interesting sip…which brings up the question again: what are these ‘white whiskeys’ for? Cocktails, highballs, neat sipping? This one, I think, could pull off all three, the kind of white whiskey that compares to white rum. Sourced whiskey.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Spring 2014)

Oh! The glory of new wood. Even dialed back from 6 years old to 5 this version pushes Canadian Club’s entry level mixing whisky into sippin’ territory. The century-old formula is unchanged, but brand new oak emphasizes the rye grain while injecting soft oak caramels and crispy bright barrel notes into the familiar, peppery, overripe dark fruit of one of the world’s longest continuously produced whiskies. A long gingery finish touches on sweet grapefruit and chili peppers.

Reviewed by: Davin de Kergommeaux (Spring 2014)

Two malts: same distillation run, same proof, but this one was aged in used bourbon barrels. The color is much lighter than the new barrel bottling (also reviewed this issue), a pale straw. Nose is delicate, notes of haymow planks, clover honey, fresh grain, and sweet orange peel. Somewhat pedestrian on the palate: sweet malt, dried hay, more citrus, and a touch of pepper, with a somewhat bitter finish. No real flaws, but no excitement either. Disappointing.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Spring 2014)

Douglas Laing follows up its award winning, Islay-soaked Big Peat with this, a sherried Speyside whisky. Just as Big Peat looks like Captain Haddock from Tintin, Scallywag on the label is a dead ringer for Snowy, though the official story is different. Anyway, this whisky isn't a patch on the Islay monster. Rootsy green salad malt is only partially rescued by the trademark Christmas cake and stewed fruits. Likeable, but not a classic. £45

Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Spring 2014)

For years, about half a dozen large oak barrels of malt spirit sat ignored against the wall of the shop at Okanagan distillery in Vernon, BC. Fruit spirit is their main product. Finally, those barrels have been disgorged and blended into a fruit-forward single malt that tilts and dips like a butterfly in flight. Ripe cherries and dried apricots flit through Kraft caramels and green apple Twizzlers into a long, glowing sunset of hot spices and floral breezes. C$70

Reviewed by: Davin de Kergommeaux (Spring 2014)

Rye whiskey aged in casks used to age maple syrup. As penetrating an aroma as maple is, it’s very subtle here. The nose is rye whiskey—spicy, oily, bitter/minty—with just the barest hint of maple. The maple peeps up mid-palate for a sweet turn and lingers into the finish. I need to be convinced of the attraction; the maple and rye jar a bit when jammed together. And the price—$82 for 750 ml—seems crazy. Price is per 375 ml.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Spring 2014)

Whisky maker John Hall says value whiskies save used barrels from being wasted. Study the label and you’ll find this lush mixer hails from Hall’s Forty Creek distillery. Sweet voluptuous butterscotch and corn syrup slather peppery heat and the mildest tannins. The pepper turns ticklish on the roof of your mouth until charred wood, burned toffee, and vanilla custard flow over it. Simple but very sippable, it’s a bit luxurious for a mixing whisky. (Canada only) C$24

Reviewed by: Davin de Kergommeaux (Spring 2014)

Burnt caramel, sweet—almost candied—but not cloying, the whisky quickly develops fiery blasts of pepper that linger long on the sides of your tongue. As the heat builds, caramel melts into barley sugar, which in turn fades into bitter citrus pith. Flinty hard rye and vague barrel tones never let us forget that this is whisky: whisky enhanced with vanilla and spices that a probing palate might have found anyway in the unflavored dram.

Reviewed by: Davin de Kergommeaux (Spring 2014)

Not often seen as a single bottling, here we have Speyside’s modernist distillery in typically delicate guise, with plenty of subtle florals (think hyacinth and daffodils), something which is amplified with water. Imagine a cool day in early spring and you are pretty much there. The mouth is clean and fresh, with a little acidity. Water doesn’t damage the palate delivery, but neither does it particularly enhance things. A sorbet rather than a meal. £65

Reviewed by: Dave Broom (Spring 2014)

Bonded Stock was a Gooderham and Worts brand until Harry Hatch moved production to Windsor during Prohibition. Dry grain with hints of bicycle tires on the nose become barley sugar and fiery pepper on the palate. Simple with a delicate balance of hot ginger, licorice root, spearmint, savory herbs, watery caramel, and mild ripe fruit, ending with a refreshing bitter tinge. Old-time hard-rye mixing whisky, but go ahead, sneak a wee sip.

Reviewed by: Davin de Kergommeaux (Spring 2014)

It's the sheer chutzpah of these young whisky producers that I adore. They don't care. They're skate punks crashing through the whisky suburbs, flipping cartwheels and turning the world upside down. This isn't great, truth be told, but what nerve to try making a rye! And while it's hard to tell with this most difficult of grains, I reckon this will come off. Hickory, licorice, and spice are in place. Now we need balance. Watch this space. 495 Krone/500 ml

Reviewed by: Dominic Roskrow (Spring 2014)

An all-rye grain mash yields this almost tequila-like whisky that was blended to tempt the agave-blessed Mexican palate. Hot, earthy, and somewhat muddy, with the black pepper signature of tequila, it gradually becomes sweet and creamy with vague hints of black licorice. Strong herbal undertones suggest dill pickles. Hard slatey rye grain softens into blue clay. The sintering heat lingers right to the end, as do earthiness and agave-like black pepper ¡Hola! (Mexico only) 99 Mexican pesos

Reviewed by: Davin de Kergommeaux (Spring 2014)

Mason jar packaging makes for an awkward pour; had to be said. Nose is hot, with a fruity sweetness and fainter notes of grassy green corn, flowers, and rock. Clean and sweet, with more corn character here, along with other fresh grains. Not nasty, not bad, but seems to be mostly aimed as a base for Palmetto’s apple pie and peach flavors. Otherwise…it’s sweet, corn-tinged vodka.

Reviewed by: Lew Bryson (Spring 2014)