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82 points

1910, 40%

12 year old 100% Canadian rye-grain whisky is transported from Canada to Hood River Distillers’ plant in Oregon where, after adding glacier water from Mt. Hood, it is bottled. Tart lime juice, ginger, and seething pepper brighten a rich combination of vanilla, butterscotch, and maple fudge. Crisp charred oak meets wet slate as raisins meld into floral notes with tinges of Canada balsam and fresh-cut pine. This rich, weighty, well-balanced whisky is decidedly fresh and exuberant.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

82 points

Dry Fly Port Finish Wheat, 43%

Wheat whiskey, finished in huckleberry port barrels, showing a deep reddish blush, purple-pink around the edges. The fruity richness of the port wood is subdued, but present, and lays across everything else in the nose. Things become less one-dimensional on the palate, and the sweet broad grassiness of the wheat lightens the port wood influence somewhat, but it comes back in the finish. It’s a decent combo, but a bit of a one-note song. Price is per 375ml.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

81 points

Hanyu Ace of Clubs 2000, 59.4%

Ichiro loves Japanese oak (mizunara) and here’s a finished example. You need water, however, to be able to discern those characteristic incense notes. Without it, you’re in a world of vanilla and resin. The neat palate is hot but firm, with some red fruits and an allspice note. Water is needed, and does allow a fresh acidity to come through on the finish; sadly it also adds tannic bitterness. A tricky balancing act. ¥9,000

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

81 points

Port Askaig 12 year old, 45.8%

A trio of new expressions of what has become an established Islay brand. This one has a vibrant, edgy opening, almost like a burning lawnmower box, mixed with needed oiliness (gun oil), white tea, and, in time, the rather pleasant note of a cold fish supper. The palate is broad, and though light, the oils allow it to cling to the tongue as the salt, lime, and smoke all begin to build. A little hard, but pleasantly bracing.£44

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

81 points

Fitch’s Goat 100% Corn Whiskey, 48.5%

Sweet and a bit funky; maybe a wisp of smoke, maybe some green cornstalk, and some mint/vanilla. Rippling and vibrant in the mouth, hot and bold, and not candy-sweet at all, more like fuel-injected cornbread with a splash of burning mint eau de vie across the top. Or maybe that’s just the AC/DC talking; maybe I should review to Mozart. Not bad, but I think I like the simpler unaged version.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

81 points

Windsor Canadian, 40%

Typical rye spices bathe in rich, smooth caramels and burnt sugar, with a gingery cayenne burn. Real black pepper engulfs cloves and cinnamon in a fiery and vibrant display, while vague tones of milk chocolate gently cool things down. Then an oiliness and mouth-filling richness sweep over a tinge of bitter herbal elixir and, yes, sawdust. This classic high-rye whisky from Alberta Distillers brings suggestions of dark fruit to an underlying nuttiness.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

80 points

Port Askaig 30 year old Cask Strength, 51.1%

The oldest of the new trio, here you can see how the smoke has become fully absorbed, accenting the peapod and spearmint, giving depth to the still-fresh ozonic elements. There are light levels of complexity, even a little chocolate. The tongue, when neat, goes deep into pear and apple, but it’s edgy. Adding water, however, shows the lack of oak integration. I’d want more from a whisky of this age (and price). £199

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

80 points

Gibson’s Sterling, 40%

This entry-level Gibson’s is cut from the same fine cloth as the exquisite Gibson’s 18 and their lavishly flavorful 12 year old. Immediately, rum and butter laced with spirit and hot pepper seep into sweet and sizzling rye spices. Then light berry-ish notes turn to Concord grapes, pear juice, and soft yellow apples, as bitter walnut skins counter rich maple ice cream. A slight waxiness lends a satisfying weight. (Canada only)C$26

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

80 points

Grandaddy Mimms, 50%

Dry, dusty corn with some fruit flashing around, and an odd aroma of cracked limestone. Simple corn spirit, lightly sweet and clean, not hot (especially for 50%), and a smooth finish. As the company notes, this is a spirit for mixing, but it’s a surprisingly easy sipper, if not overly rewarding.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

80 points

Hanyu 7 of Spades 1990 Cognac cask, 53.8%

Aged exclusively in cognac casks, here is Hanyu again showing its thick, earth-rooted solidity, even to the extent of some rootier elements showing. That said, on the nose, some water brings out jasmine, frangipani, and mace, with a light buttery note. It’s very spicy on the tongue: nutmeg mixed with bitter roots, but as with the Ace of Clubs, water just increases dryness. A bit too rigid for me. ¥14,000

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

80 points

Port Askaig, 19 year old Cask Strength, 50.4%

As with the 30 year old, here you get the sense of smoke being absorbed rather than being expressive. There’s not a lot of cask at work here—this has real minerality, and an oily brininess bringing to mind a hot outboard motor on a fishing trip. Halfway in a fire ignites, sending clouds of smoke forward, but then it dries too quickly. Good, but just not enough oak to give it depth and length. £80

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

79 points

Embrujo, 40%

This is a Spanish whisky from the Granada region. It's not Spain's first whisky or its best, but this could eventually be a contender. Its problem is that it has sulfur all over it: a deliberate attempt to empower the malt, or sloppy whisky making? Get past it though, and this is a thin, light orange and mandarin aperitif whisky, and ideal to serve chilled early on a sunny, summer Spanish evening. It's about context. Not earth-shattering though. €80

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

78 points

Schenley Golden Wedding, 40%

Prior to Prohibition, Golden Wedding was a fine American whiskey. Decades later, entrepreneur Louis Rosenstiel successfully revived the brand in Canada. The result shows hints of burnt toffee, dusty rye, dry grain, and pickle juice. Earthy elements underscore river plants and citrus pith. Hot, peppery spices bolster lively spirits while jammy fruit and floral overtones round out a straight-on mixer. A whisky that transforms ginger ale into ginger ale. (Canada only)C$24

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

77 points

Canadian Club Reserve 9 year old Triple Aged, 40%

The discontinued 10 year old CC Reserve was typical of the hard-rye genre, with vanilla, caramel, ripe fruit, and hot pepper stitched onto a flinty-firm base. This new 9 year old version, though similar, has obvious differences. Pleasing heat rides an initial surge of toffee, dry grain, and dried dark fruit. A soon-to-arrive pithiness on the shortish finish refreshes, but without the familiar steeliness of its antecedent.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)

73 points

Canadian Five Star, 40%

A tad thin for sipping, Five Star is a quintessential mixing whisky, laden with dusty rye and citrus pith; it begs for ginger ale. First, though, sip it neat, and feel it blossom in your mouth; it brims with spirit, caramel, and blistering pepper. Behind these linger orange zest, herbaceous tones, creamy corn, and refreshing bitterness. Tingling rye spices that play off the pepper perk up its sweet fruitiness. Now mix it, and delight in its straightforward simplicity. (Canada only) C$22

Reviewed by: (Summer 2013)