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82 points

John David Albert’s Taos Lightning Rye, 45%

Like the other Taos Lightning Rye, there’s an MGP provenance that’s topped with local aging; it is stated to be a 5 year old whiskey. There’s the signature brittle-dry mint of this mashbill, some hot oak and shortbread. The mouth is quick, spicy, and hot, but not over-balanced in any direction. Good, but not setting off the shock and awe.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

82 points

Jack Daniel’s Unaged Rye, 40%

Clear as Cave Spring water, a mashbill of 70% rye, “mellowed” by charcoal, and ignorant of barrel-aging. It is white dog-brash: fresh wet grain, trampled grass, and a salty tinge. The spirit is pleasurably smooth and cool, sweet in body with a bitter film of rye spice. A gentlemanly clear spirit that’s itching to get into a cocktail; my only real complaint is the price. (This is “a taste of what’s to come,” so expect an aged rye to follow.)

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

82 points

Teeling Poitín, 61.5%

I'm really excited that new world whiskey makers and independents are challenging the way we think about whiskey. But there are concerns, too, such as flavored whiskeys, and white spirit sold as the finished article. Poitín is an Irish pauper's spirit made illegally, so legal definitions are patchy. It is normally made with potatoes. This is a mix of new make Irish single malt and new make Irish grain. It tastes like new make Irish whiskey. End of story.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

82 points

XXX Shine, 44.4%

Unaged corn whiskey from Philadelphia. The distinctive white corn spirit smell: crushed corn leaves, wet cornmeal, hint of fruit and split stone. A singular flavor, though: the usual flabby, green sweetness isn’t here. Instead, there’s a dry, solid corn flavor, something that tastes complete, arrived. I could ask for more complexity, but the focused, dry intensity of it has a singular appeal, asking only ice — or a lager chaser — to make a great afternoon.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

82 points

T.J. Pottinger Sugar*Shine, 50%

Not cheap sugar “squeezins,” this is mashed from 50% corn and 50% cane sugar, run on an alembic still by two Beams whose great-grandfathers were J.W. Dant and Minor Case Beam: some credibility. Clear as glass, a big corn nose tinged with light caramel and violets. Nicely sweet and warm, grassy-fresh and east to hold in the mouth. Clean, straightforward stuff.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

82 points

Myer Farm White Dog, 43.3%

An estate white whiskey: the corn in this spirit was all grown and harvested on the Myer farm, a Finger Lakes farm dating back to the 1860s. The nose is clean and green, a focused blast of unmodified corn. The spirit is zesty and fresh, sweet and grassy/minty; easy to hold on the tongue until a final heat that fires the finish. If the finish were a bit smoother…still quite good for unaged whiskey.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

82 points

Black Velvet Toasted Caramel, 35%

Canadian whisky is sweeter to start with, and so may well be a natural base for flavors. It certainly seems that way with this underpriced example. The nose is like restrained caramel candy, a fairly deep note of toasted sugar. The drink itself is sweet, but doesn’t cling, and is crying for a bit of fizz, or some ice cream to drape itself over. Not bad at all for the price.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

82 points

Adelphi (distilled at Longmorn) 20 year old 1992, 55.1%

With Longmorn, you are always looking for a dense, sweet fruitiness. This doesn’t disappoint on the nose, where there’s moist compacted fruitcake with marzipan, Brazil nut, glacé cherry, a hint of tobacco, then hard toffee. The palate is soft to start but then an overly firm grip and slightly bitter edges come through. Though water improves it, the oak is slightly too dominant. That said, the nose is superb. £80

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

81 points

Charbay R5 French Oak Aged, 49.5%

Take the Charbay R5 Clear and add some vanilla and toast notes: interesting. The flavors…on first sip, the mellowing richness of the oak makes for a nice entry. But the wood blunts the zip of the hoppy beer wash without adding enough to compensate for the loss, and makes for a hotter finish. It’s still interesting, but the wood gets in the way of what this can be.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

81 points

Taketsuru 12 year old, 40%

“At last!” they cry. Anchor Distilling is bringing in whiskies from Nikka. I taunted you with the first of the initial brace in 2010, the exemplary Yoichi 15 year old (a hefty 95 points). The second is the firm’s vatted malt, Taketsuru 12 year old. A mix of Yoichi and Miyagikyo distillates, it is the latter which is to the fore here: a honey-laden mix of cut flowers, persimmon, vanilla, and apple. More are on their way.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

81 points

Wiser’s Spiced Whisky Vanilla, 43%

Pink cotton candy and hot caramel sauce on a simple nose turn to rich burnt toffee and invigorating hot chili pepper on the palate, followed by savory herbs. The herbal tones quickly turn pleasantly bitter before fading into the barest suggestion of dry oak. Tingling peppery heat lingers right to the end. A hot, spicy version of Wiser’s Deluxe with the rye elements boosted by added vanilla. (Canada only) C$28

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

81 points

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Aultmore) 20 year old 1982, 46%

Aultmore is part of the Dewar’s stable and another of Speyside’s forgotten light brigade. Here is a noseful of esters: bubblegum, pineapple, pink grapefruit, strawberries, and icing sugar. Visions of “Legally Blonde” flash through the mind. The palate is equally energetic, though with little cask influence it’s a bit gawky and slightly green, especially with water, suggesting that another year wouldn’t have done it any harm. Still, all very lovely. £100

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

81 points

Chichibu The Floor Malted 3 year old, 50.5%

Another work in progress from the ever-enterprising Ichiro Akuto. This is made from barley that was malted by him and his team in Norfolk. Unusually for a Japanese malt, the aroma is, yes, malty, but it is more chaff-like than nutty. Chichibu’s floral element is there alongside grape must, verjus, and herbs. The palate is a fascinating mix of the very sweet with balancing dry and sour notes. A distillery that’s growing up fast. £90

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

81 points

Berry Bros. & Rudd (distilled at Glen Moray) 21 year old 1991, 57.3%

Thanks to the suicidal pricing policy of its previous owner, Glen Moray has been considered nothing more than a bargain basement malt, but at its best it is a very sweet, lightly malty dram. This is as soft as a lemon cream bun in a sunlit baker’s shop. Water brings out banana chews while the tongue brings to mind a picnic with baked scones and apricot jam. The only negative is slightly needling alcohol, so dilute and drink quickly. £72

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

81 points

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Caol Ila) 16 year old 1996, 46%

Initially what we have are classic Caol Ila notes: cod liver oil, soft pear-like fruits, and a glimpse of lobster cooked in sea water. It’s not so much smoky as ozonic and, though it seems a little exposed with water, there’s a squeeze of lemon (for the lobster, maybe). On the tongue there’s a light ashy note before the mouth is slowly filled. Any smoke is in check and understated. This is about citric freshness and salt. £70

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

81 points

Glenfiddich 125th Anniversary, 43%

Bottled for this auspicious occasion, this is a Glenfiddich that confounds people’s expectations by being smoky, not from casks (à la Caoran) but the distillate. Fresh, with a nose that brings to mind eating apples and hazelnuts around a late summer bonfire; the smoke seems in charge. On the palate, the reverse happens, with the fruits being thrust forward and the smoke only emerging on the finish. It’s vibrant and needs water, and is a lot of fun. Happy Birthday! (Travel Retail and distillery shop exclusive)£70

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

81 points

Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Four Wood, 47.2%

Aged in American oak, and then finished in maple, sherry, and portwood. The nose is intriguing and entertaining, but the palate loses me. At the beginning, it’s sweet to the point of bordering on cloying, and then there’s an emergence of flavors (wood spice, stewed fruit, caramel, etc.) that turns very busy and lacks integration. The flavors just don’t play well with each other. To me, the whiskey is trying too hard to impress and achieves the opposite.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)

80 points

Elements of Islay Bw1 (distilled at Bowmore), 52.9%

Though the color suggests good cask activity, the initial approach shows a dram that seems slightly unfocused and youthful. There are some kernel-like cereal elements and very little smokiness, with touches of salt and oil. The feeling is that it’s only starting to blossom — and there is a floral element — and has been bottled too early. It’s all very focused, lifted, and aromatic, but when compared to the Adelphi you can’t help but wonder whether the same distillery is involved.

Reviewed by: (Spring 2013)