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85 points

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Glen Scotia) 'Strawberry Ganache,' 46%

This single cask variant of Glen Scotia has been matured in a sherry butt for 21 years, and the cask yielded 833 bottles. Fruity on the nose, with sultanas, cherries, marzipan, and milk chocolate. The palate showcases overripe oranges, sherry, and plain chocolate, with a tang of brine. Drying in the finish, with pepper, licorice, and subtle smoke. £110

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

85 points

Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask (distilled at Highland Park) 15 year old, 50%

Unlike ‘house’ bottlings of Highland Park, all of which are aged in sherry casks, this expression in Douglas Laing’s Old Malt Cask series has been matured in former bourbon wood. It was distilled in September 1996. Sweet and fruity on the nose, with nougat and peanut butter, plus a slightly herbal note, and finally discreet, sweet peat smoke. Medium-bodied, citric, and spicy, with a little smoke. Smokiness turns to ash in the finish, with citrus fruit and caramel. £70

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

85 points

Lagavulin 12 year old (Diageo Special Releases 2012), 56.1%

This is usually a bracing expression of Lagavulin and this year’s release doesn’t disappoint—smoldering peat, ozone freshness, but with greater sweetness than in 2011, though water shows how it is still just a little gawky. The palate is, yes, smoky, but there’s also light cereal, praline, violets, and seashore aromas aplenty. Fills the mouth with intensity. Okay, it’s edgy, but that’s what you expect.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

85 points

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Ledaig 1993 St-Joseph Wood Finish, 45%

Distilled in May 1993, this bottling is of the Ledaig heavily-peated variant of Tobermory single malt. Aged for 19 years, it was ‘finished’ for 40 months in wine casks from the St-Joseph AOC in northern Rhône. Pickled beetroot, emerging caramel, and distant log-fire embers on the nose. Voluptuous and fruity, notably spicy—pepper and ginger—plus mulled wine notes. Quite lengthy in the finish, with lingering spice. Peatiness is most evident here. 2,200 bottles.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

85 points

Kornog Sant Erwan 2012, 50%

Bearing the easiest name of all the Kornogs to pronounce, this is also the least challenging and complex. It is, pretty much, a straightforward peated whisky with more citrus fruits than the others, some apple and pear in the mix, and some chilled spices. The finish is long, smoky, and spicy. Benefits massively from a little water. €86

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

84 points

Port Ellen 32 year old, 52.5%

A mix of two types of cask, both refill. Typical Port Ellen on the nose, very clean, precise, and austere, hiding its sweetness in a new pigskin wallet. Though there are hints of apple and almond, it has a chalky edge and surprisingly low levels of smoke. With water there’s squid ink and waxed paper. The palate starts with Darjeeling tea and roasted fruits, then heads to the kelp-strewn seashore. As challenging as ever, and actually a bit too dry. £600

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

84 points

Balblair 1996, 46%

Balblair’s 1996 vintage expression replaces the previous 1995 variant as a travel retail-exclusive bottling, and maturation has taken place in bourbon casks. Ginger snaps, peaches, pineapple, and vanilla on the relatively light, fresh nose, which also has just a wisp of smoke in the background. Medium-bodied, the palate offers soft toffee, milk chocolate, spices, and the same fruit notes as the nose. The finish is quite lengthy, with a final flourish of black pepper. Price is per one liter.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

84 points

Balblair 2002, 46%

This 2002 expression of Balblair replaces the previous 2001 vintage as the ‘entry level’ bottling. It is naturally colored and non-chill filtered, in line with the rest of the Balblair range, and has been matured in bourbon barrels. Fizzy lemonade, banana skins, and violets on the nose, with soft caramel developing in time. Fruit and nut milk chocolate on the palate, with ripe apples and vanilla. Long, floral, and lively in the finish. £40

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

84 points

Auld Reekie, 46%

The old name for Edinburgh has been hijacked for use on this mix of Islay malts, and appropriate it is. The creosote, damp outbuilding, and oily rope nose is distinctive and strong, the peat pronounced in the taste, though gooseberry, green melon, and a trace of kumquat are also in the mix, and there's pepper in there too. But ultimately the peat holds out and brings up the finish.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

84 points

Forty Creek Cream, 17%

Quite a bit darker than most other whisky creams. Chocolate and caramel—on the burnt side, an interesting difference—in the nose, with a sly hint of whisky behind it. Sweet and creamy, a bit clingy, with just a sting of whisky. Somewhat generic, though, because that interesting dark caramel is in the nose only, and I’d like this to be a bit more distinctive; more Forty Creek. Still pleasant enough for booze candy! C$29

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

83 points

Telsington IV, 43.5%

Brace yourself, it's about to get bumpy. Liechtenstein is a tiny principality in central Europe and the Telser distillery sited there takes its whisky very seriously. Every stage, from drying the barley over smoke first to the red wine casks used for maturation, is designed to make this different from scotch. You'll love it or hate it. The linseed oil nose isn't encouraging, but the liqueur-like flavors, with fir tree, furniture polish, and Rumtopf-style fruit compote have their own charm.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

83 points

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Linkwood) 15 year old, 43%

A catch-up rather than a new release, but a fascinating contrast to the 14 year old Flora & Fauna bottling. Yes, there’s apple blossom, but here there’s more medlar, fruit syrups, raspberry, and an intriguing play between vanilla and lightly oxidized nuttiness. Linkwood’s substance is shown on the palate, where an oily feel adds texture to the lush dried fruits and saffron-led spiciness. Best neat. An elegant dram.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

83 points

Copper Fox Rye Whisky, 45%

A 2:1 blend of rye and “hand-malted barley” lightly smoked with fruitwood, aged with apple and oak wood chips in used bourbon barrels, finished in another used bourbon barrel, aged 12 months total. Was it worth it? A good rye smell, with fruit notes; quite appealing. Relatively smooth, and the smoke comes through quickly, with sweet pepper spice and vanilla. Not overly complex, but well-made and pleasant.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

82 points

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Mortlach) 15 year old, 43%

Another catch-up from G&M, this time from the ‘Beast of Dufftown.’ Immediate substance and solidity, which is what you want from Mortlach, but there’s also thick-cut marmalade and cumin. Only with water, however, does the classic meatiness emerge—like a lamb tangine with apricot. A cleaner, slightly lighter side to the Flora & Fauna 16 year old, but with heft and a burnt licorice sweetness. A great introduction to a classic distillery.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

82 points

Berkshire Bourbon, 43%

There’s a hot, brittle nose of sweet spice, like a cinnamon Red Hot floating in alcohol, with a softer backing of cornmeal underneath. This is a well-behaved bourbon in the mouth; no off-flavors, easy to hold on the tongue, with more corn than spice now, and a lack of wood until the finish, when it wraps in on the corn to dry things up a bit. Simple, sweet, a little spicy, and really easy to drink; a good start.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

81 points

Giant French Oak Barrel 23 year old, 45%

Much more oak influence than its younger sibling. That lovely sweetness of the 19 year old Experimental Collection Giant French Oak Barrel bottling is there at the beginning, but it’s quickly overtaken by oak spice, leather, and tannin notes. This one was left in the barrel a bit longer than I would prefer. If you like a wood-driven whiskey, then consider trying it. But if it’s balance you desire, look elsewhere. Price is per 375 ml.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

81 points

Dad’s Hat Pennsylvania Rye, 45%

Aged 6 to 7 months in quarter barrels. Sharpish, oaky nose with a sweet grain/golden syrup backing. Spirity in the mouth, with a big slap of young oak up front that quickly subsides, yielding sweet corn muffin, white pepper, and dry cocoa that linger into the finish. Hot, but worth the burn. Some nice components here; age and a bigger barrel could do a better job on integration.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)

81 points

Yamazaki Sherry Cask, 48%

No doubts from the color what type of cask this is: first-fill, sherry. The nose shows masses of bitter chocolate, fresh coffee grounds, black cherry, and molasses cut with humid aromas of damp earth, nut, and dried fruit. This bittersweet theme continues on the tongue, but its sweetness surprises, with the spirit pushing the tannins away just enough to reveal itself. If you like savory power, this is for you. For me, while it’s instructive, it’s too grippy. £70

Reviewed by: (Winter 2012)