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90 points

Berry Brothers & Rudd (distilled at Glen Grant) 1972 37 year old, 51.8%

This is quite different from the Adelphi Glen Grant bottling (below), being more cask-driven, but Glen Grant’s clean fruitiness remains, although transformed by age. Its apples are baked, with some added caramelized juices thrown in; we see apricot alongside dried lemon peel, and light, sweet spice. The waxiness here is akin to leather oil, while the oak has sufficient grip to give structure. In time, there are hints of the cellar — burlap and wet earth. Delicious, and best neat. £184

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

90 points

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Springbank) 13 year old, 46%

Recently bottled by Duncan Taylor in their non-colored, non-chill filtered NC2 range, this 13 year old expression of Springbank initially exhibits tinned pears on the nose, then smoked fish cooked in butter, coconut oil, brine, and a hint of lemon. More sweet wood smoke with time, turning to char. The palate opens with profound, sweet fruit, swiftly followed by salt, lime, and medicinal notes. Lingering, with ginger in the pleasantly oaky finish. £64

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

89 points

Berry Brothers & Rudd (distilled at Mortlach) 1989 21 year old, 48%

Immediately identifiable as Mortlach, with a pleasant, feral mélange of meat mingled with milk chocolate and gorse. There is elegant sweetness here, but expressed as a mix of the bittersweet caramelized juices stuck to the bottom of a roasting pan, with honey. The palate, unsurprisingly, is big, and medium dry, but here as well there’s some sweetness in the form of black fruits. Mortlach, but in a slightly subtler guise than usual. £60

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

89 points

Balblair 2000, 43%

The 2000 vintage of Balblair is intended to replace the well-regarded 1997 variant. Matured in first-fill American oak, this very drinkable expression represents good value for the money. A pretty peach and pineapple nose, with coconut and honeyed vanilla. Toasted marshmallows with time. Relatively light-bodied, sweet, with lively spice, ginger, and youthful oak on the relatively complex palate. Fudge in the finish, and a contrasting hint of dark chocolate at the last.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

89 points

Scotch Malt Whisky Society (28:23) 21 year old, 57.5%

This bottling of Tullibardine was distilled in November 1989 and has been matured in a refill sherry butt. The U.S. allocation is 120 bottles. Initially, damp earth on the nose, sweetening to milk chocolate-covered fudge and vanilla, along with hazelnuts. Notes of plum and black pepper with time. The palate is fruity, with toffee, spice, and cedar wood notes. Long in the finish, with cereal and spicy resin.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

Four Roses Limited Edition (2011 Release), 55.05%

A marriage of four different bourbon recipes aged between 11 and 13 years. Very elegant and stylish, as with many of the Four Roses offerings. Its age also shows, with a firm measure of wood spice and grip on the nose and the latter half of the palate. Soft honey, bright fruit (sultana, ripe peach, tangerine), and spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, crisp rye), evolving into darker fruit and more caramelized sugars on the palate, along with leather notes on the finish.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

Masterson’s Straight Rye Whiskey Batch #3 10 year old, 45%

The third recently released 100% rye whiskey sourced from Canada, with the others being WhistlePig (50%, $70) and Jefferson’s (47%, $40). (The one you purchase might depend on which one you can find, as they are all quite limited.) This one sells at a premium to the other two, but shows polish and is nicely rounded. Layers of sweetness (honeyed fruit, caramel, nutty toffee, maple syrup), toasted oak, cinnamon, evergreen, nutmeg, and a dusting of cocoa. Very distinctive!

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. Single Barrel, 50%

The second release in the new Taylor line by Buffalo Trace, and the first single barrel offering. Similar in personality to the first release (a small batch offering), but a shade darker in color, flavor, and personality. A bit more intense, too, with more mouthfeel, and not as demure. A fair trade-off. Starts off sweet (rummy, burnt dark fruit, fig cake) then becomes dry, with dried spice, tobacco, toasted oak, and leather. Very exciting and distinctive.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 12 year old 1999, 49%

Rather bold (especially with the spice notes), with dark fruit (black raspberry jam, plum), citrus glaze, vibrant spice (vanilla, cinnamon, clove), a dusting of cocoa powder, polished leather, and pencil shavings, all on a bed of caramel. Long, spicy finish. A nice way to finish a rich, hearty meal, perhaps?

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

New Zealand

Rugby union fans will recognize the name and spot that 1987 was the last time the New Zealand All Blacks won the world cup. Bottled for this year's tournament, it's 24 year old whisky from the demolished Wilson distillery in Dunedin, and it's a rarity — very good New Zealand malt. It's not unlike the Shackleton — big lemon and smoke notes, a pear and apricot heart, lots of oaky spice, and a delicious aniseed rancio conclusion. $NZ 299

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

Chieftain’s Choice (distilled at Rosebank) 20 year old, 54%

This refill sherry butt-matured, cask strength variant of the Lowland classic Rosebank was distilled in December 1990. Floral and fruity on the nose. Sweet, with malt and black cherries, plus a hint of new leather. Quite viscous in the mouth; nutmeg, dark chocolate, and toffee on the palate. Walnuts and background dry sherry. The finish offers gentle oak and lots of spice.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

Scotch Malt Whisky Society (50:42) 18 year old, 56.9%

Distilled in Scotland’s most southerly distillery of Bladnoch in October 1992, this bottling has been matured in a refill hogshead, and 150 bottles have been allocated to the U.S. It presents a fresh nose, with initial herbal notes, turning to cornflakes and newly-mown hay. Sweet and fruity on the palate, with oat biscuits and milk chocolate. The finish is relatively short, with spicy custard, then a final fruit flourish.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

Balblair 1989, 43%

Matured in second-fill bourbon casks, this expression of Balblair offers a distinctive aroma of bananas, along with cooking apples, sultanas, nuts, and spices. It is full-bodied and exhibits a palate of toffee and spicy fruits, and becomes increasingly chocolate-y, with distinct cocoa notes, when given time to breathe. Raisin notes also develop. The finish is lengthy and smooth, with lasting lively spice and vanilla.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

The Famous Grouse Celebration, 40%

Available only at the distillery or online, and limited to 5,000 special decanters, this is a special Famous Grouse release to mark the 30th anniversary of the blend. Be careful, though: it's not a 30 year old blend. But it is excellent and there's lots of very old, woody, and ripe malt in the mix. As Highland Park and The Macallan are in the stable, expect a fruity, oaky, superbly balanced treat. £80

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

88 points

Adelphi (distilled at Glenrothes) 1990 20 year old, 58.6%

The nose is redolent with the smells of autumn jam — slowly stewing dark berry fruits — but there’s a hint of hazelnut adding a drier edge alongside some waxed paper. As it opens, out comes argan oil. This constantly changing array of aromas is very Glenrothes, as is the vanilla lift when water is added, which comes with added cordite. The palate is very sweet, filled with fruit syrups and even some dried rose petal. The finish, long. £79

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

87 points

Forty Creek John's Private Cask No. 1, 40%

Burnt sugar, wet raisins, oakspice, and a deep, underlying grain character. Flavors are wonderfully integrated: corn, malt, mellow syrup, hints of ripe plum and grape, wrapped in a light confection. Finish is light, warm, and lingering. Forty Creek releases a limited edition whisky every fall; this one focuses on grains rather than wood, according to distiller John Hall. Canadian distribution only.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

87 points

Adelphi (distilled at Glen Grant) 1985 25 year old, 55%

Old gold in color. Obviously an old whisky, but a delicate one that has subtle complexities; the balance between the dried grass/hayloft, the dried orange peel, and stewed apple, for example. Sweet and fragrant, it shows chypre notes with water alongside a more gentle floral aspect. The palate is drier than the nose suggests, quite mineral, with a lacy character. The finish shows melon and mint. Glen Grant in gentle repose.£88

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)

87 points

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Old Pulteney) 21 year old, 43%

Gordon & MacPhail bottled a 21 year old expression from Scotland’s northernmost mainland distillery for the U.S. market earlier this year. Sweet on the nose, with honey and vanilla; fleetingly, stewed apricots and peaches, plus a hint of caramel. Intensely focused, sweet tropical fruits on the palate, with barley sugar. Becoming nuttier, with an edge of mixed spices. Spice fading to milk chocolate in the medium-length finish, with just a suggestion of brine.

Reviewed by: (Winter 2011)