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86 points

Glenugie, Chivas Brothers, Deoch an Doras bottling, 32 year old, 55.4%

Recently added to Chivas Brothers’ lineup of Cask Strength Edition whiskies, this Eastern Highland single malt from the ‘lost’ distillery of Glenugie in the fishing port of Peterhead is perfumed on the nose, with discreet sherry, cocoa, fresh leather, blackcurrants, peaches, and apricots. The palate is initially sweet, with fresh fruit, but old-fashioned cough drops and black coffee notes soon arrive. Very long in the spicy, tannic oak finish. Exclusive to Chivas Brothers’ distillery visitor centers and www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com (500 bottles). £250

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

86 points

Glen Garioch, 1991, Duncan Taylor Rare Auld range, 51.1%

Melon notes to the fore early on the nose; floral, especially carnations. Progressively more caramel, with Parma violet sweets. Pretty and feminine. Richer and fuller-bodied on the palate than the nose might suggest. Fresh fruit, apple juice, almonds, and gentle spices, slowly moving to milky coffee in the finish. The faintest hint of smoke pervades the flavor, but is very much a ‘bit part’ player in the ensemble.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

86 points

Balblair 1991 Duncan Taylor Rare Auld Range, 53.9%

This cask strength Northern Highlander offers a full and complex nose, comprising brandy notes, stewed apricots, spices, table salt, and white pepper. A hint of nougat turns to darker caramel. Rich on the palate, mouth-coating, sweet, with lively spices. The finish is buttery, with a pinch of ginger, and a final brandy-and-soda finish.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

85 points

Gordon & MacPhail “Private Collection” Port Wood Finish (distilled at Caol Ila), 1998 Vintage, 10 year old, 46%

Sweet, viscous, and weighty; much more so than its sister whisky (reviewed above) that was finished in Madeira casks. But the same Caol Ila DNA is here — tar, olive brine, pepper — along with fleshy red fruit and chocolate. Lingering ripe fruit and tar on the finish. Save this one for after dinner, or with a book at bedtime.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

85 points

Auchentoshan 1998, 54.6%

This 1998 vintage triple distilled Lowland Auchentoshan has been matured in fino sherry casks, which are rarely used for Scotch whisky maturation. The nose presents violets in fresh soil, honey, spice, developing citric fruit notes, and almonds. Quite full-bodied, fruity and zesty in the mouth. Lengthy in the finish, with spice, nuts, and oak. Becoming dry and gingery at the last.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

85 points

The Dalmore Spey Dram, 40%

The Spey Dram is made up of 36 percent whisky matured in ex-oloroso casks and 64 percent from American oak. The nose offers fresh oranges, brittle toffee, cream, and ginger. The nutty palate reveals fresh fruits, and is significantly spicier than the other Rivers expressions, with ginger and even chili notes. The finish is long and notably spicy, with less chocolate than in the three other Rivers variants, ending with a touch of treacle. £42 Currently not available in the U.S.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

85 points

Inverleven, Chivas Brothers, Deoch an Doras bottling, 36 year old, 48.5%

This veteran Lowland Inverleven — distilled within the now decommissioned Dumbarton grain distillery complex — is a recent addition to Chivas Brothers’ Cask Strength Edition series, and is exclusively available at distillery visitor centers and from www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com. The nose is creamy, gentle, and sweet, with vanilla, rum raisin ice cream, and a subtle, contrasting peppery note. Mouth-coating, with citrus fruits and slowly developing dark chocolate, which lingers through the long and gingery finish. (500 bottles). Currently not available in the U.S. £275

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

85 points

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection: Glenlivet Decades 1980, 48.5%

A quintet of releases showing examples of The Glenlivet from five decades, issued to support The Glenlivet Generations 70 year old bottling. All are available individually or in a limited edition set (50 only) for £2,850; these bottlings are not currently available in the U.S. This is from a first fill American oak hoggie, and the extra time in cask has given it a classic mature Glenlivet character: a rich, complex mix of cooked apple, pine, and citrus, cut with rose petal. The fruitiness has moved from pear into baked apricot. Water adds an almond note. The scented notes have been retained (especially on the finish), but have deepened into sweet spice. The oak gives light grip. Have with chilled water on the side. £250

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

85 points

Canadian Club Classic 12, 40% ABV

Nose is much more integrated than the others; caramel and light honey tones with an oaky vein. After four CCs that were sequentially innocent, clumsy, eager, and balanced, this one is confident: well-rounded, sweet but not goopy, oaked but not prickly. Well-named: this is a classic Canadian.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

84 points

Edradour Port Cask, 6th Release, cask #383, 46%

The latest in this Perthshire distillery’s ongoing Port Cask series of releases has been wholly matured in a bodega port butt since being distilled in 2003. The nose is fragrant, featuring summer berries and glacé cherries, while the palate suggests canned pineapple with cream, contrasting with red wine notes. The finish is quite lengthy, with raspberries, spicy oak, and a whiff of smoke.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

84 points

Benromach 12 year old Origins (Batch 2), 50%

The newest member of the ever-expanding range hailing from Gordon & MacPhail’s own distillery in Forres. This example has been aged in port pipes — and it shows immediately on the nose. Benromach is a teasing mid-weight Speysider, and this has added depth of sweet damson jam-like aromas mixed with Seville orange (marmalade) and some milky nut. Rich fruitcake flavors on the tongue. This is a very well balanced and precocious 12 year old. Worth a look.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

84 points

Glen Ord, Milroy’s of Soho Single Cask, 1999, 46%

A Glen Ord bottled by the London wine and spirits establishment of Milroy’s, and a relatively rare opportunity to sample single malt from this Diageo-owned distillery. The nose initially presents lemon zest, then peaches and caramel, with cream soda notes. Very fruity and lively in the mouth, with a nutty, malty undercurrent. Medium in length; firm, with spicy fruit lasting to the very end, accompanied by a touch of well-mannered fresh oak. £45 Currently not available in the U.S.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

84 points

Glen Breton Ice, 62.2% ABV

Aged 10 years in icewine barrels — a Canadian specialty — and like icewine, comes in a tiny bottle. Sweet malt aromas, some grape character, with a brandy-like edge slicing through it. The high proof comes through as evaporative rather than hot, and it’s quite drinkable undiluted: some creaminess even, and some of that sweet icewine intensity to it. A drop of water brings more whisky out: bold, a bit hot. The icewine finishing is an experiment with promise. Price is per 250 ml.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

84 points

Michael Collins 10 Year Old, 40%

Don’t remember ever reading that Michael Collins suffered from schizophrenia… This is a bewildering whiskey suffering from an identity crisis; its fruity apple Irish heart wrapped in wood, some peat, and conversely, some sherbet and sugar-coated almonds. It’s not unpleasant — far from it — but the journey from sweet apple to sharp spice is a challenge. Stay with it and ultimately the complexities of the malt win through.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

84 points

Collingwood, 40%

Sweet, rich candy — pulled taffy, boiled sweets — with a little hot edge. Signature Canadian sweetness, but with more depth and a gently mouth-coating feel. Touches of vanilla, caramel, and some of those candy notes again, but the finish isn’t cloying. No overt evidence of the toasted maplewood finishing. Another exploration of what Canadian whisky is, or can be, that stays within bounds and makes the sweet whisky idea work.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

84 points

Sullivan’s Cove Cask Strength, 60%

There are now more distilleries on the Australian island of Tasmania than there are in Ireland, Japan, or Canada, and the island is demanding to be taken seriously as a whisky territory. At the forefront of the Aussie invasion is Sullivan’s Cove, once home to some decidedly ordinary whiskies, but now kicking into gear. This needs water, but is a unique mix of fruit, nuts, and soft malt. Clean, more-ish, and unique, this is Australia raising its flag.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

84 points

Glenfiddich Age of Discovery 19 year old, 40%

Named in honor of the early Portuguese explorers, this newest Glenfiddich expression has spent a lengthy period of secondary maturation in Madeira drums. This has given a rich sweet fruitiness — think blueberry muffins mixed with moss alongside date, fig, and black grape. The palate is sweet and smooth with a pickup of gingery spices toward the finish. Well balanced and quite a departure. (Travel Retail exclusive, not available in the U.S.) £75

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)

83 points

Glenfiddich Snow Phoenix, 47.6%

Second of this pair of limited editions from Glenfiddich. This was named after a number of the distillery’s warehouse roofs collapsed under the weight of snow in 2010. This was a bottling of a selection of casks — ex-sherry, ex-bourbon, refill — from one of those damaged warehouses. It is gentle and sweet — cooked pear, fruit crumble topped with rolled oats, golden syrup, and on the palate hints of raisin. A lemon finish adds a freshness to a dangerously drinkable dram.

Reviewed by: (Summer 2011)