Matured entirely in oloroso sherry butts, this whisky is chock-full of lush fruit, roasted nuts, deep spice notes, and a hint of damp smoke. It is wonderfully integrated, with incredible depth and maturity without being tired-and it expresses a soothing quality that doesn’t quit. It is stunning throughout and more polished and rounded than the 1968 Vintage released a while back, which, while enjoyable, was a tad sappy and a bit too oaky at times. This whisky is easily one of the 10 best new whiskies for 2005, and worth every penny. Get a bottle while you can.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

The last Balvenie Vintage whisky I tasted that was this old was the exceptional 1966 Vintage. This new vintage has some big shoes (or should I say bottles?) to fill, so how does it stand up to the 1966 Vintage? This 1973 Vintage is equally as impressive. In contrast to the massive, evolving, sherry-influenced 30 year old reviewed below, this one shows more subtlety and finesse. It is also a very clean and polished affair-signs of an obviously excellent cask. A honeyed, malty foundation incorporates notes of dried fruit (orange, lemon), complex spice (vanilla, cinnamon, sandalwood), and subtle herbs. Very contemplative.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Deep amber color. Exotic aromas of honey, vanilla, and tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple, mango). Medium to full in body, and rich in texture. The palate delivers what the aroma promises-honey, vanilla, and more tropical fruit, with a somewhat dry and rather lengthy finish. The Balvenie distillery enjoys an excellent reputation. The older expressions are particularly noteworthy. They age very gracefully. This one is a pure joy to drink.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Beautifully balanced, like Kentucky Vintage, but more complex and with greater depth. It’s also not as boldly dry as Pure Kentucky XO. Rather, it is softer and more seductive. This is splendid bourbon! It would be a shame to adulterate this bourbon in any way-don’t even think of mixing it. Find yourself a quiet moment, pour yourself a measure, and savor.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Independent bottlings of Cragganmore are hard to come by, and this one is a beauty. Cragganmore is not rich, heavy, or sweet like many Speyside whiskies. This one is medium-bodied, yet firm. It is clean on the palate throughout (with a brief honeyed vanilla note before becoming dry), and it is loaded with spice and dried fruits that continue to evolve. Long, lingering, finish. The decision to forego chill-filtering certainly reveals more of this whisky’s subtle, yet persistent, complexity.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

A special Balvenie to honor Master Distiller David Stewart’s 30 years working at the distillery. This is a big and brooding dram. The aroma suggests it is aged in both bourbon and sherry oak. It’s complex and richly flavored (sweeter up front and increasingly dry towards its finish), with notes of honey, candied fruit, thick cut marmalade, vanilla, almonds, and prominent spicy oak notes. I’m picking up plenty of sherry in this new expression, which I like. It finishes firmly dry, with notes of spice and tannin. While I enjoy this whisky a great deal, you might want to seek out the Balvenie 25 year old (which I rated a 93) while the odd bottle is still available. It is slightly more rounded on the palate, and less than half the cost.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

It's nice to see Gordon & MacPhail bottlings at strengths higher than 40%, and it makes this already hefty whisky even more so. It is fragrant (with subtle heather notes), rich and malty (and quite thick in texture), with notes of honey and vanilla. Interwoven fruit (sultana, along with subtle lemon and orange) add complexity. All this sweetness is rounded out nicely with a long, dry, oaky/spicy finish. A delicious, evolving whisky. (Bottled exclusively for Binny's Beverage Depot.)

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Just as complex as Johnnie Walker Gold, but fuller and more richly textured. (Not surprising, given that there are no grain whiskies in Johnnie Walker Green.) This is one of the finer vatted malts on the market. Its flavors are well-integrated. You’ll find creamy toffee and nougat at its core, which is then layered with notes of vanilla, mint, fresh brine, and even a hint of mustard seed. Excitingly fresh and vibrant on the finish. A whisky for both the blend and single malt drinker. And at $55, it is also fairly valued for an all-malt whisky.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

The oldest of the four in years, and also the highest in alcohol. It has managed to maintain its balance of flavors and keep the oak notes from becoming too dominant. Bolder and more masculine than Rowan’s Creek, but not as teasing or seductive. Still, it’s a great effort.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Benriach is a lesser-known whisky and, for a Speysider, fairly light in style. This one is very bright and fruity on the nose with aromas of citrus (lemon), pineapple, green grapes, vanilla bean, honey, and linseed oil. Its age is evident, but tucked away in the background. The palate mirrors the aromas and is quite complex. As you might expect for a 34 year old whisky, it dries out mid-palate with some grassy hay notes yielding to resinous oak towards the finish, but the oak never becomes excessive. I can’t remember the last time I tasted a Benriach this good.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

This expression is atypical for a Macallan whisky-the standard Macallan line is aged in sherry casks, while this one is aged in a bourbon cask. Absent the sherry, this isn’t as sweet or rich. Rather, it’s more delicate and gentle. The whisky is very clean and creamy, with lovely floral notes (lavender, heather, rose), intertwined with spices (especially vanilla), and fruit (baked apple, pineapple, coconut). Delicate, pleasing finish. One of the better non-sherried whiskies distilled at Macallan. (Bottled exclusively for retailer Wine on the 9.)

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Light to medium in body, but quite flavorful. Firm spice notes and subtle brine (both of which are often found in Northern Highland malts) makes the whisky fresh and quite lively. There’s a soothing, mouth-coating, toffee sweetness providing balance and depth. This is the first distillery bottling of Balblair available here in the U.S. in a long time, and it is very welcomed.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Pleasingly aromatic and floral, with lively fruit, fresh cereal grain, honey and vanilla cream. Subtle grassy, hay notes add complexity. A very friendly whisky, conjuring up images of a sunny afternoon in Spring.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Clean and uncomplicated bourbon. Creamy sweet layers of vanilla, caramel, and toffee are underpinned by soft citrus fruit, gentle mint, teaberry, and delicate oak. Here’s a bourbon certainly good enough to drink on its own, but you won’t feel guilty throwing it in a mixed drink. Nice for everyday drinking.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Notes of smoked olives and an earthy peatiness wrapped inside layers of sweetness (honey, caramel and light toffee). The whisky is laced with seaweed and pepper for added zest, with a long smoky and peppery finish. It shows enough maturity, yet it is young enough to let the true Caol Ila character shine through. I would like to have seen this whisky bottled at a higher strength and not chill-filtered.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

A cask from some of the last remaining stocks of whisky from New Zealand’s Wilson distillery. A very unpretentious creamy-sweet malt (fresh vanilla, honey), with subtle floral notes, mint and hints of smoke. A bit youthful in character-especially on the finish. I think two to five more years on oak would enhance this whisky and provide additional depth and smoothness, but it is quite enjoyable right now, at ten years old.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

Aged in a bourbon cask. This is a big, vibrantly fruity whisky (lemon, lime, orange, grape), with background notes of anise, fat barley, and vanilla. An unusual and often difficult to find dram. (Bottled exclusively for “Wine on the 9”.)

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)

An interesting comparison to the Mackillop’s Choice expression reviewed above. This is also a big, bold whisky from the currently mothballed Imperial distillery. This one is less fruity. Instead it is quite sweet with a ripe maltiness up front-and rather viscous in texture-becoming dry, slightly austere, and spicy on the finish, with a wisp of smoke. (Bottled exclusively for Binny’s Beverage Depot.)

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2005)