This might the most drinkable Evan Williams Single Barrel vintage ever produced. Its most noticeable personality trait is sweetness (gentle, not cloying), with notes of caramel corn, vanilla custard, candied fruit, and subtle macaroon. Spearmint, cinnamon, nutmeg, and charcoal provide some zest. Soft and clean on the finish, with gentle oak resin. A smooth, easy ride from beginning to end.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

When I toured Glenfarclas in May 2008, George Grant told me that, while it is usually not their policy to stray from aging their whisky in sherry and bourbon oak casks, they have done some experimenting. One of these experiments, aged entirely in a port cask, has finally been bottled. The nice thing about Glenfarclas is that it is a rich spirit and can stand up to a good dose of port wine (or sherry for that matter). The port notes are lush, with ripe fruit (plum, red grape skin, caramelized apricot, prune) and dates complementing the whisky’s malty, maple syrup foundation. The 27 years also impart a good dose of polished oak for balance. Not as complex as other Glenfarclas whiskies of this age, but this is certainly a solid, enjoyable change of pace for Glenfarclas. (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

If you’re looking for a bold, dry, spicy Speysider, this is the one. There’s lots of oak here, with bourbon undertones. A fighting vanilla sweetness manages to keep the whisky from becoming too austere. Gritty texture, with cedar wood, clove, spearmint, anise, herbal notes, dried fruit, and dark chocolate. A whisky that awakens the palate. Very invigorating. (Exclusive to The Whisky Exchange, London.)  Price: approximately $100.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

Full gold. Oily in texture, with ripe barley, front-loaded toffee, honey-drenched citrus, fallen orchard fruit, and a full complement of spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove). Gripping, resinous, slightly hot finish. The flavors don’t meld together here as well as the other three expressions, but it’s still a fun ride. (Price is per 1 liter).

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

Lovely golden honey color. Lush and sweet (the Sauternes impact is obvious), with honey-drenched apricot, sultana, and lemon gum drops. Vanilla, candied nuts, and subtle botanicals round out the palate. Decent oak grip on the finish keeps the whisky from being too cloying.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

Nectarine, tangerine, toffee, and vanilla on the nose. There’s also teasing smoke, if you look for it. The sweet fruity notes start at the beginning of the palate, then cinnamon, nutmeg, cut hay, and smoke kick in. Lingering cracked pepper, clove, and distant smoke. Good gritty texture. Dynamic stuff for a young whisky.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

Aggressive earthy smoke, tar, fiery pepper, bath soap, and ginger tamed by toffee and ripe malt. Lingering smoldering peat, anise, and tobacco. For those who like smoky whiskies young, aggressive, and unabashed.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

This is the new super-peated (131 ppm phenol barley) Bruichladdich. “Super-peated” seems almost like an understatement. Ultra-peated, perhaps? Intense smoke on the nose and palate, with notes of freshly tarred road, cigar smoke and ash, licorice root, bacon fat, kalamata olive, and smoked seaweed. Struggling to emerge are youthful orchard fruit, honeyed malt, brine, and soft vanilla. Long, smoky finish -- like licking the walls of a peat-infused kiln. A very invigorating whisky. It’s a few years younger than the other ultra-peated whisky, Ardbeg Supernova. I think if they were both the same age, I would like them equally (and score them equally -- I gave Supernova an 89). But the Octomore does taste a little green, which was not noticeable in the Supernova. I think Octomore will be very good in another five years, and amazing in another ten. Let’s hope the lads at Bruichladdich are holding some stocks back.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

Background on the Master’s Collection: this is the fourth of the 100% pot still whiskeys from Woodford Reserve in their Master’s Collection series (the previous being two different Four Grain releases and a Sonoma-Cutrer wine finish expression). All four have a common pot still character to them, and their flavors really expand most bourbon drinkers’ concept of bourbon. The second batch of Four Grain is still my clear favorite of the releases so far. It’s balanced and complex.
1838 Sweet Mash review: Burnt orange/amber color. Sweet, fruity, and spicy on the nose and palate. Notes of orchard fruit (peach, apple), golden raisin, bramble, and spice (cinnamon, evergreen, nutmeg, and clove) on a bed of sweetness (maple syrup and honey). It’s thick and viscous in texture and quite sweet on the front end of the palate, but dried spices and oak emerge mid-palate and rescue it. Long, spicy, resinous finish. I would rather the whisky didn’t go from predominantly sweet to mostly dry and gritty. I wish these two components were better integrated. If they were, I would have rated this whiskey higher.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

A balanced and well-rounded whiskey, but it tastes a little youthful and spirity on the finish, and lacks the depth I’m looking for to score it higher in the 80s. Notes of maple syrup, crème caramel, and raspberry tart, with cinnamon, vanilla, mint, and dried citrus peppered throughout. I like it, but there are better bourbons at this price.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

Indeed smooth, and malty, with vanilla, shortbread, golden raisin, and macadamia nuts. Light oak spice emerges on a fairly quick finish. (It is only 8 years old, after all.) Pleasant and easy-going.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

Nice to see Arran making it to 12 years old. Creamy on the palate and soothing in nature, with layers of sweetness (maple and butterscotch syrup, vanilla cream) and fruit (caramel apple, fried banana). Soft, congenial finish. A low-level yet persistent nutty/burnt rubber note detracts from what would otherwise be a very fun, pleasantly sweet whisky. (Note: at the time of publication, the whisky was not yet available in the U.S. Price above is UK price, converted to dollars).

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)

Deep on the nose and heavy on the palate. Enjoyably perfumed aromas and an entertaining palate, with both showing a complex array of chewy toffee, cinnamon, candied fruit, roasted nuts, dusty cocoa, and tobacco. But a very tactile leather and oak resin component dominates mid-palate through to the finish, spoiling the party. It’s past its prime.

Reviewed by: John Hansell (Summer 2009)