91 points
Blackadder 9 year old Raw Cask Smoking Islay, 59.4%
You looking for adventure, my friend? Follow me. Enveloped in sweet aromatic smoke, this wraps you in a headlock, enabling smoke to snake into your nostrils and blow out both ears. Blistering smoky precision, with shredded lemon peel, île flottante, toffee, jasmine, and cinnamon bark. A palate of lemon meringue pie, vanilla, light toffee, and pepper conceals its true strength. For hedonists: Rowdy, with a chance of peat for all. (278 bottles, 90 for U.S.)—
Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2020)
Fruit and grain drive this solid sipper, with aromas of banana, cantaloupe, almond paste, and lemon-ginger tea to start. In the mouth, it’s rounded and full, showing zingy lemon, biscuity malt, cooked bananas, and milk chocolate. Water brings out brighter fruit flavors: strawberry, lemon, and green apple hard candies. The finish comes full circle, with bananas, lemon, almonds, and vanilla. (216 bottles; U.S. exclusive)
The sweet, mineral, herbal smoke of this whiskey is a rare treat, calling up memories of the shells of grilled oysters, smudging a bundle of sage, and lightly charring marshmallows over a campfire. Subtly smoky on the palate, well-woven with sweet confectionary notes of meringue, candy cigarettes, and powdered dried lemon zest. It finishes mild and still sweet, vanilla and coconut on the final breath. Curious, unique, and delightful.
Dhavall Ghandhi’s latest one-off creation uses casks that held colheita (single vintage aged tawny port). Fragrant and appealing, with spices, apple jelly, pink Turkish delight, plums, warm coffee grounds, Seville orange peel, forest honey, and cedar boxes. Flavors of cherry, toffee, pepper, clove, and an early surge of high alcohol, it develops a creamy mouthfeel with cranberry, sultana, and sweet cinnamon buns, finishing with leather, tobacco, and prune juice. £65
Dark and mysterious, with prune juice, leather boots, aniseed, Brazil nut, and tobacco. There’s oloroso and PX influence on the palate, with prune, dried fig, baked orange, dark muscovado, chocolate-covered toffee, and hazelnut, with a finish of cocoa and smoky espresso notes. It nearly has the body and texture to sustain these heavy-duty flavors, but it’s a bit like a skinny kid in a leather jacket trying to act tough. £48
Tomer Goren, head distiller at Milk & Honey Distillery in Tel Aviv, excels at warm climate single malt production under the intensity of the Mediterranean sun. His ethos is beautifully captured within this kosher-certified flagship bottling, matured in bourbon and shaved, toasted, and re-charred casks. It exudes a nose of golden syrup, vanilla, marshmallow, jasmine, dried apple, nutmeg, cinnamon, and pepper. Flavorful and juicy, the palate has satisfying depth, with caramel, vanilla, shortbread, honey, and orange, daubed with vivaciously spicy black pepper.