92 points
Drumshanbo Single Pot Still, 43%
After decades of consolidation, Ireland is experiencing a craft whiskey renaissance. Founded in 2014, The Shed Distillery delivers the first whiskey from the western province of Connacht in over a century. Polished creamy sweetness and aromatic spices herald this striking dram, which has been triple-distilled and then matured in first-fill bourbon and oloroso sherry casks. Aromas of caramel, brioche, satsuma, and dried apricot draw you in, ushering in a luscious palate of pear, apple, and freewheeling spices bolstered by dried citrus, lime, and toasted coconut. Number 14 in the 2020 Top 20
Reviewed by: Jonny McCormick (Winter 2020)
Malted rye is a rarity in whiskey, and at 60% of the mashbill here, this earns high marks for originality. The nose has lively notes of chili powder, pepper, and paprika, along with licorice, pfeffernüsse, candied dark berries, orange peel, and spearmint. The palate begins gently enough, then whips into a spice storm of chile peppers and spicy cooked meats, with flavors of roasted pecan, dark chocolate, blackberry jam, more orange peel, and rich oak, before a finish of dried oranges, vanilla syrup, and well-integrated spice.
The nose is sweet with vanilla cupcake, crushed almonds, pecan sandies, Granny Smith apples, and Chinese coconut jelly. There’s a rancio element that pervades through the palate and finish—a bit like toasted oak, brown sugar, and even mothballs—that gives the whiskey gravitas to counterbalance the marshmallow and lemon bar flavors. Mellow and sweet, it has a lengthy finish that displays gentle finesse. (500 bottles)
Distilled above 80% ABV from 99% corn and aged in used barrels, this qualifies as light whiskey. Expressive nose of butterscotch, brown sugar, vanilla, coconut cream, candied pecan, and maple syrup on hot pancakes. Gripped by its proof from the first sip, you may find your mouth puckering from tannins and tingling with heat, but the sweet flavors of dark caramel, maple syrup, and candied nuts offer softening balance. Generous watering is highly recommended; you won’t miss a single flavor, but your tongue will recover more quickly from the high-octane ABV. (106 bottles)
A wonderful balance of red wine and malt notes on this Australian shiraz finish: black currant, cooked apple, blackberry, After Eight mints, black tea, chocolate praline, cherry compote, and dark toffee. Malty, with soft fruits and strawberry jam flavors, then cinnamon, blackberry, dark toffee, clove, pepper, and oak char, with the brighter red summer fruits kept in reserve until the final stages. (9,000 bottles)€140

The reticent nose reveals little at first, but eventually a few aromas emerge: vanilla, licorice tea, furniture polish, and a slightly tart note, like gooseberry or kumquat. That’s borne out with the palate’s tart and citric character, showcasing plum, pear, lemon, gooseberry, and kumquat, with an herbal tinge, toasted oak, and a hint of almond. The finish is mouthwatering—almost mouth-puckering—and continues the tart fruit theme. This is an odd but intriguing whiskey, showing great consistency and novelty.